Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Absolutely Love this Blouse!



I love this blouse and am really pleased with the outcome. The pattern, well that's another story. The fabric is "linen and linen blends" and looks and drapes like a rayon/linen blend. It washed well in the machine. Like all linens, it is very ravelly so the few inside seams that showed got the Hong Kong treatment. Most seams are covered by facings of some sort. We will be going to a wedding Memorial Day weekend and I think this top paired with either a great chiffon print skirt or a matching charmeuse skirt could be really nice for the occasion. This will also go great with my navy linen pants. I also think this pattern would work up beautifully in a sheer.
The pattern, Butterick 5186, shown a few posts previous, was a doozy. I have made a few Issey Miyake patterns in my day and never encountered the issues this one has. There are definite drafting issues here. Based on reviews in PR I knew there were problems with the neckline. I marked extremely carefully and folowed directions. It does not work. It took major fiddling to get that seam correct. It runs from a dart going up the arm, across the neckline, and down the other dart. Sounds easy and should be. The end of the darts and their dots are no where near the beginning of the neckline seam. With a lot of clipping and fiddling I got it to work. But then I ended up with an unavoidable blister at the junction of the dart and neckline, not leftover fabric to be eased in, but a weird blister. I was able to get it to lay flat, fell stitched it together, and the two blisters are now hidden inside the dart, just very weird. I love the sleeves. The top layer is on the bias due to the cut of the bodices. The next layer folds back into the sleeve and creates a facing covering the original seam. This is so poorly described as well as illogically sequenced in the pattern that it could very easily turn this into a wadder for a less than experienced sewist. This pattern looks so simple, but trust me, due to its poor instructions and awful drafting it is far from it. I thought I would be able to whip this out but spent major time fiddling. I think in the end it came out fine, though. I would definitely make this again and may in a white linen I just bought. But I will throw out the instructions and do my own thing with it and also rework that neckline dart configuration.

I also like the bias peplum on the bottom. It gives the blouse a nice lower shape without the sash making it look like a tied up potato sack. You have to be careful of that look with an hourglass figure. This shapes nicely with the sash tied and doesn't look overworked with the peplum. ......Bunny

17 comments:

  1. Very pretty. You'll look fab!

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  2. What a lovely blouse. I hadn't noticed the pattern before. It does look similar to a Vogue blouse pattern from the 80's that I made, though the collar was fuller and more ruffle like in the front. Unfortunately it is not a style that works for me. I was mentally picturing your blouse with the skirts you described. Both versions would be wonderfully feminine outfits.

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  3. Very nice work, Bunny. Be sure and post a photo of the whole ensemble.

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  4. Very pretty and feminine. I had a similar blouse in 100% linen trimmed in lace in the 80's. I wore it a lot, but had to iron it a lot, too! I think this one has a lot of wearable potential for the summer.

    BTW, my daughter and I love your bunny tags - they are adorable. My daughter's pet name is Bunny, and she was excited to see those tags.

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  5. Glad you worked it out in the end. It looks lovely.

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  6. This is lovely, the issues you had are not apparent. I have this pattern and was planning on making it for spring. Now, I am not so sure. Do you have suggestions for fixing the draft, before I cut it out? I love yours, and would love to make one for myself.

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  7. Nancy, I would definitely do a muslin. The issue is the darts do not line up with the neckline seam. They need to be move up closer to the neckline so that you can stitch all the way across from dart point, thru the neckline, and down the other dart. The darts take the place of the shoulder seam. The small dots on the neckline, when lined up with the small dots on the shoulder make the blister. Luckily you can"t see any issues at all the way I was able to hide the blisters into the seam but that was luck, believe me. With your skills Nancy, I know you can make this work, but I would def. do a muslin.

    Summerset, send me your address by email and I will send your daughter some bunnies. I have hundreds, really. Bunnypep at wildblue dot net.

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  8. I agree with Shannon, very chic.

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  9. What a beaut of a blouse. I love the lines and those sleeves are amazing.

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  10. Thanks. I will make a muslin and see if walking the seam makes it clearer where the issue is. I do love this top. I will be in NYC on the 23 fabric shopping with a fellow PR member and I am planning to buy some linen or linen blend for this top.

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  11. I took a good look at the instructions and I see where the issue is now.

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  12. Lovely!
    I have the instructions AND the patten piece here in front of me trying to figure out how to solve the problem with your tips. Pray for me. I'm not sure how one could change the construction? i.e., the arm/shoulder/neck(collar) seam?
    Also, did you lengthen the peplum? in the pattern instructions it looks very short, and I was thinking I'd probably need to lengthen it, but I'm only 5'2" so probably not looking at your finished blouse.

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  13. Cissie, I would move the open end of the dart so the opening lines up with the neckline seam and one leg of the dart is in line with the seamline. Muslin, Muslin! I haven't tried this but this is what I will do next time. With this first construction the problem was evident till too late.

    I am 5 ft tall and the peplum covers the high hip just right on me. Just covering the high hip is a good length for me, but I can see where this may be too short for some. I think I would lengthen the bodice instead of the peplum, but JMHO.

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  14. The blouse is stunning and your work superb!! Congratulations!

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  15. Bunny .- this shirt is not only beautiful, it's a great piece of sewing timeless. I love the model, fabric and color. It seems one of those things where everything is perfect, really.

    Enjoy yourself, Paco




    Bunny.- esta blusa no solamente es bonita, es una gran pieza de costura intemporal. Me encanta el modelo, la tela y el color. Parece una de esas cosas en la que todo es perfecto, de veras.

    Disfrute usted, Paco

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