Wednesday, March 23, 2011

My Chanel is Done!

And what a learning curve it was!!!  I really can't wait to do another one. There is much I will do differently. I have issues with the fit that didn't seem apparent on the muslin. But no matter, I will get lots of wear out of this and like it with my beige jeans.

Here's my issues:
  • These sleeves were installed twice. Originally they  were huge. Did I add seam allowances twice? That is all I can figure. The shoulders were narrowed for my muslin and were just fine. I took out the sleeves, narrowed them, and re installed. This process came in at eleven hours. If you have made one of these you know the quilting, those three pieces of sleeve, the trimmed cuffs,  all got moved and redone. Oy,,,,,, none of this happened with my muslin. And with the expense of the fabric there was no way this was going to be a wadder.
  • The shoulders are too wide and need to come in. I compensated here by adding shoulder pads which usually makes a jacket look more balanced on me anyway. I guess I could go back at this point but for me it's time to move on. Redoing the sleeves took all of the steam out of this project. It's wearable.
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  • Third issue is the actual pattern. I came to really dislike it as I went along. It is Vogue 8259. I find the sleeves very wide and feel they would be more attractive with a tighter fit as they near the wrist. I have mature upper arms but petite lower arms.  I deliberately made mine 7/8ths. My other pattern issue was the pockets. If you could look at this pattern straight on, which is near impossible to find a pic of on the internet, you can see how the pockets appear assymetrical in regards the center front. I think it is some sort of optical illusion happening with the trim, overlap and buttons. I have decided I like the look of the center front meeting at the edges with a closure of a hook much better. It just makes the pockets look  balanced in my opinion. This bothered me so much I left off  the breast pockets. I know they were where the pattern wanted them to be but it just didn't look right to me. Do you see how  my left pocket appears further away from the CF than my right pocket? It really isn't but with the trim and buttons and overlap, it looks assymetrical to me and bugs the heck out of me. Think I have an overthink problem? I won't use this pattern again. My next pattern choice will be Simplicity 2284 and I will draft a three piece sleeve. 
The good stuff:
  • I still think it is really pretty and I will get a lot of use out of it.  I really think no one but me and all you blog followers will know about my fit issues.
  • It taught me so much. I cut my teeth on this one. It is far from perfect. I will make another soon and am shopping for fabric as we speak. The next one will be much better. I may streamline a process or two on the next one as well. 
  • I love the details. How can you not  when this much work is involved? Handworked buttonholes with bound buttonhole facings, oh my!!!
  • Gotta love that chain! When it is all done and you stitch on that chain it is like taking final exams and getting the diploma! 

Finishing this jacket is the good news of the day! My March pants are another story and I will have more on that soon. In the meantime I am making two darling bags that are bringing back my sewing excitement!...Bunny

33 comments:

  1. The jacket is very pretty, and I agree that no one will know about the issues but us. I won't tell anyone.

    My problem when I make something is that I can't accept a compliment. I always have to say, oh, but look at what I did wrong here.

    I'm currently working on smocked insets for two dresses for Easter granddaughters.

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  2. I love your jacket - beautiful and so timeless!

    I'm pretty new to all of this and would like to ask you if the lining satin is actually sewn though to the outer shell, or are they darts?
    Also the chain - is this to weight the jacket hem, or purely decoration?
    (Told you I was new - these are probably glaringly obvious answers !)

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  3. I will answer your great questions in my next post, Jemajo. Welcome to the blog and ask away!

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  4. Your review is excellent.
    The jacket is SUPERB.
    I agree, a Chanel jacket, is a sewing experience.
    Enjoy this jacket, it is lovely!

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  5. It does look great with your beige jeans! It looks pretty great period. Your fit issues aren't apparent in the picture. It sounds like a lot of work and skill. I plan to make a tweed/boucle jacket, but not a Chanel type jacket! I am looking forward to your next one and all the tips you can share while making it, now that you have worked out some of the pitfalls.

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  6. I agree with Karin--your fit issue are not apparent. Yes, I can see the optional illusion with the pockets appearing off-center. I notice it on jeans back pockets, also. I wonder now, how authentic Channel handles that problem.

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  7. I just Googled "the Chanel jacket" and looked at the photos of the authentic garments. Those that have button cloures, do also, in fact, have pockets with an "off centered" look. So, your jacket is perfect the way it is.

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  8. I think your jacket looks fabulous and yo look wonderful wearing it. These projects are so nice to do, learning something at every step of the way.

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  9. I am sorry the sleeves gave you such a headache, but my goodness, your jacket is pretty! I actually like the shape of the sleeves, although, of course, it is how you feel that matters.
    Really, so pretty!! Enjoy wearing it and all the compliments!

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  10. Are yuu going to use the same pattern with the new fabric? I've followed several sewists advertures with this pattern and although I have it, I don't' think I will be sewing it up.

    I do understand how you can get to the point of just want to finish. Period. Get it done. But I have to say, it looks lovely from here.

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  11. Bunny I am so glagd you finished your CJ. You look wonderful wearing it with these pants.
    I perfectly undrestand what you mean when you are talking about all the things you don't about this pattern.
    I was not so pleased with my sleeves cap either. But the man in the street wont notice it.
    I must say that though I don't wear my CJ a lot, this experience has chaged my sewing so much that it was worth all the work I put in it.
    Me too, I would like to make another one but wit a better fit.

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  12. Your jacket is fabulous! You look so elegant in it, even with jeans. Thanks for sharing the process.

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  13. Jacket looks fabulous! With time (hopefully) you will forget about the minor issues that you have and will just be able to enjoy wearing this wonderful piece.

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  14. Beautiful jacket - thanks for sharing
    the good and the bad.
    Your blog is one of my favorites.
    Very inspiring.

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  15. Your jacket is beautiful. The trim adds just the right amount of contrast and texture. I am paying close attention to trim because my own Chanel jacket project is stalled due to trim indecision. I also admire your determination and perseverance in altering a three part sleeve, already sewn together using the Chanel method. That task would have intimidated me.

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  16. First of all - it is just gorgeous! You have done a great job. I wonder if the fabric stretched with the quilting? Did you recheck the sewing lines against the pattern after the quilting and before the sewing? I vaguely remember reading to do that somewhere. And I agree with you on the optical illusion with the pockets. I always thought it looked a bit strange on the pattern envelope. With yours I notice that the bottom button is not quite as low as the pattern. Perhaps that increases the illusion as you don't have a button between the pockets? But aren't we picky? It really is beautiful!!

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  17. Your projects are always so beautiful and this one is no exception. I see some things you notice, but they are really nothing compared to how completely awesome the jacket is. I hope you wear it a lot, I would!

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  18. Bunny, the jacket is beautiful and looks great on you! Have you added labels to the jacket posts so it will be easy for your readers to look up? Some of us may want to try to make one and your postings will make a good resource.

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  19. Well done! I think it looks great on you. Your attention to detail always pays off.

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  20. Your jacket is beautiful,Bunny. And beautifully made! I've got to get mine out and finish. It stalled with sewing down the miles of trim! But seeing yours inspires me.

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  21. Bunny, your jacket looks fantastic. Can hardly wait to see what you do different on the next jacket, I learn a lot following you.

    nonie

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  22. It is fabulous, and yes, no one will be the wiser regarding the fit issues. Even those who sew might not notice.

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  23. gorgeous gorgeous jacket!! I have to go back and read your blog about it. As soon as I lose some weight I want to make it.. It fit you perfect!!

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  24. WoW, Bunny!! This turned out F-A-N-T-A-S-T-I-C!! BRAVO!!

    I know you're going to lots & lots of wear from this one. I'd love to see it with brown or black silky/dressy pants.

    Well done, Lady!

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  25. I'm desperate for the directions to Vogue 8259. Is it possible to obtain a copy of them from you? (I would be more than happy to pay a fee for the copies.) Or if you could scan them, and email them, let me know. I'm sure we could work something out. Also, if you would want to part with the pattern, if the price is right, I'd be willing to buy it. Please let me know. Thanks, Jane

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  26. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  27. BTW, I love your jacket. I agree with you about the pockets, though. I suppose I'll figure it out! (I tried to edit this comment, but it doesn't give me an option, so I reposted.)

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  28. It occurred to me that you might need my contact address haha. zapper45701@frontier.com

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  29. Because I don't peruse the comments of older posts (there are hundreds), zapper's request did not get found until March of 2016. If you need to contact me, email is better and posted on the sidebar.

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