Monday, September 9, 2013

The Zieman Sleeve on Simplicity 2153

We are almost at the finish line. It's a good thing. We had frost last night and even colder tonight so my fall jacket is much needed. Tomorrow we will be in the low 80s but tonite it's frost. Such is life in the Adirondacks!

Nancy Zieman is my heroine. I have said it many times. I used to tape every program and watch and rewatch them to the point of happy brainwashing. This woman has taught me so much that I use in all my sewing from fit to zippers and back. This jacket I am working on right now will use a method I  learned from her program at least 15 years ago, maybe more. Her techniques are timeless and they save time and effort. On the crinkled jacket I will be using her quickie lined sleeve technique. I really wanted all my seams either bound or hidden. With this
technique they will be and once done,  the inside of the jacket will be totally and cleanly finished. This is very easy. I did it just a  bit differently because I wanted to be able to roll up the sleeve a bit. This meant I I needed a really deep hem and a longer sleeve. At this point the fashion fabric sleeve is cut out with a 3 inch hem. This means once folded I will have a one and a half inch cuff folded up. So the fashion fabric needs to be cut twice the length of the foldup. Hope that's clear.  Now we need to cut the lining. To do this I first cut a block of fabric out of the lining making sure it was on grain. The hem edge of the FFS (fashion fabric sleeve) is pinned to the crossgrain of the block  and a seam is stitched.

I then marked the fold of the hem on the RS (right side) with a frixion marker. This hem fold was pressed in and the heat of the iron makes the pen marks disappear.

The seam is ironed toward the sleeve not the hem. 
Flip the fabrics over. Your FF, which is already cut into a sleeve, will be facing up. Wrongs side are facing.  Pin the sleeve pattern back onto the cut FFsleeve including the lining fabric. The tissue on the right shows how my extra sleeve length has been folded up and seamed to the lining block. Once pinned the lining is cut out to match the FF sleeve pattern piece.

Once cut and flipped over this is what you will see:
Take the pattern tissue off and open out the sleeve. Pin the underarm seams together and stitch the full length.  Press your seams flat then open over a seam stick or roll.


Once done put the lining sleeve on your arm and pull the FFS over it. Match seams and pin around the armscye edges. Stay stitch around the entire armscye seam on the sleeve. Now you are ready to install this into the jacket. The pattern , Simp 2153, has you stitch the sleeve in flat but that would leave my underarm seam raw or needing to be bound .. Instead I stitched up the side seam which also gave me a chance to check the fit (nice) and installed the sleeve into the armscye in the traditional manner, in the round
.Once the sleeves were installed the armscye seam was bound with bias binding from the lining fabric. Sleeves are done and all that is left now is to put some beads on the cord and string ths baby up and then a fashion shoot! We'll see what the weather holds tomorrow! ....Bunny

24 comments:

  1. I love Nancy Zieman too! And I've used this technique many times myself! Can't wait to see the finished jacket!

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  2. I've never heard of her, but will look her up!

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    1. She has had a sewing program on television for the past 25 years. While it seems to be more focused on quilting in the more recent years, garment sewing was the main topic of her show. I've learned a great deal from those programs. She also has many books published and I highly recommend her Fitting Finesse and her Busy Woman's Sewing Book. The latter is filled with short cuts and great techniques. It is an old book, totally relevant today, that you can pick up pretty inexpensively on Amazon. I refer to it a lot with my sewing.

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  3. Beautifully detailed description, Bunny!
    I, too, have stacks of tapes of Nancy Z. & will never get rid of my VCR player just for that reason! LOL

    Don't you ♥♥♥ those frixion pens? I've been using them to mark my feather spines for free motion quilting. Big help! I've heard if you put the marked fabric into the freezer, you can make the marking reappear, if needed. You might want to check that when you first wear your jacket outside in those frosty temps!! Brrrr!

    Warm Hugs,
    Rett

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    1. You are right and I do love my frixion pens. I know it washes out also so I am not too worried. I have had very good luck with them.

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  4. Looking forward to the fashion show! Beautiful work and perfect description and pictures. :)

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  6. Always, always, always, Bunny, I learn so much from you. Your pictures and procedures are so clear and thorough. Mil gracias, Conejita! Yes, Nancy Zieman is wonderful! I live about an hour from her store. What a fun place to shop and take classes! BTW, many of her books are available at abebooks.com for $1.00.
    Now hurry up and model this beautiful jacket for us, please!

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    1. I've always wondered what it would be like to shop in her store and take a class. I bet she is a wonderful boss, too.

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  7. Beautiful description of a really nice treatment. When reading the posts on this project, I keep getting tripped up by the patterned lining fabric, but I think I have it now. I take it this will be washable?

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    1. It is totally washable, Cynthia. I washed and dried the crinkle fabric on warm and it came out perfectly. The batik is 100% cotton and has a really smooth silky finish so I am not worried about it "sticking" as a lining. It washed beautifully as well.

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  8. This jacket will be a joy for you to wear and an even bigger joy for others to see and admire! Thank you for sharing another wonderful tip from Nancy...she too has guided me through the years but unfortunately with budget cuts to our local PBS channel we lost her and Martha Pullen and every other sewing show available. I have most of her books as well and refer to them when I want a brain top-up!

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    1. Our PBS dropped her as well but you can still see all new videos on her website.

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    2. Wow...thanks for the heads up, Bunny...I'll check it out!

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  9. Thank you for sharing your techniques. I want this jacket after seeing yours come together. It's going to be beautiful.

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  10. I'm anticipating your photos shoot of your jacket. Your fabrics are such beautiful choices, both FF and Lining. I like Nancy Zieman, too, and thank you for the book recommendations in the comments. I've already requested them at my library!

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  11. Lovely technique. It's great that you always attribute the techniques you use to their originators. And your photos and excellent description add so much. Thanks so much.

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  12. I would love to try the technique. Thanks so much for the clear tutorial. I have a few of Nancy Zieman's books-they are filled with so many cool techniques.

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  13. Hi Bunny, just stopping for the first time. :) I'm enjoying reading your blog. I have sent you an email regarding one of your posts. ;)

    Warmly,

    Carol

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  14. As always, your garments are beautifully finished, both inside and out. Looking forward to the fashion shoot pictures.

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  15. Nancy Zieman and then Sandra Betzina on HGTV gave me the courage to start sewing garments for myself after many decades. Your jacket is going to be another lovely creation.

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  16. Finally retired from teaching I have found a new passion in my return to sewing. I am planning a Simplicity 2153 and have studied your blogs and photographs with great interest, especially the lining, which I want to emulate. Did you create a back neck facing which is bound? Thank you for being so generous with your sewing skills.

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    1. I did. The facing in the jacket extends to mid shoulder on the yoke as there is no actual shoulder seam. There is a forward yoke seam instead. The pattern has you turn in the back collar, yuk. So before cutting I made a facing pattern ending it at the forward yoke seam plus SAs. Then I made a back neck facing from the forward yoke seam, around the back neck and to the other side forward yoke seam. Make sure you add seam allowances. It was interfaced and cut, bound and sewn to the jacket with the collar in between.

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    2. Your reply is very detailed and so helpful. Thank you.

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