Sunday, October 4, 2015

Vogue 9035, the foiled top from Marcy Tilton


Lame smile, hubby making me laugh! While I think this looks like a maternity top out of Mad Men, I like it. It's comfy and out of my "style zone". I definitely favor more hour glass emphasizing designs , but for a casual work top, this is perfect. I wore it to work Friday and to a party after work with slim black pants. There were many compliments but more than that, this top just felt good. I wish you could see how the foiling sparkles. I did make my buttonholes a tad too big and they shift, therefore the wonkiness. I am going to tighten them up and then all should fall evenly as it does when I pay more attention to such things.
As with most Marcy Tilton designs, the collar sort of does its own thing, flopping this way or that and that's OK. I like an interesting collar. The pockets add a LOT of volume to the garment. I was able to bring them under control with some pressing. This is ideal for someone choosing to hide a tummy or waistline. My fingers are pointing to the actual seam line for the dropped shoulders. I am pleased with how that turned out. Here are more details.



I foiled an irregular rectangle on the back. I think it adds to the Japanese vibe this top sort of has. The collar is cut on. The back has some interesting details at the lower level.

There is sort of a pocket effect going on but actually its a tuck with zigzagged topstitching separating the sections, Marcy's idea, not mine. I like it.

Here you can see the pocket. The pattern piece has a very unusual shape to pull this off. I found the pocket really billowed out front but with some pressing came under control. The one thing I don't like about the design/pattern is the sleeve cuff. I love that there is an option for a fold back cuff with a slit as I really detest long sleeves. BUT, that slit is on the underseam of the sleeve and barely visible. You can see it here, almost. I would have preferred more effort put into the sleeve design so the slit would be on the outside of the sleeve, the norm. But I will live with it. By having the slit of the cuff tied into the underarm seam, it is easier to pull off. A split cuff would definitely take more thought and pattern pieces, probably a facing, to pull off. But I would have liked that better.



There is a definite "swing" shape to this garment which you can see above. Heck, that's what makes it so comfy. I've always liked me a good swing top or jacket so I am comfortable with this.

Pattern: 
This pattern is Vogue 9035, a Marcy Tilton design. It has a dropped shoulder, a cut on collar, interesting back detail and a very unusual bodice front that incorporates the bodice into the pocket, if that makes sense. It has a definite "swing" silhouette to it. I found it comfortable, stylish enough to get many compliments and a very interesting design. Tilton's patterns have not often worked for me fit-wise but this one was perfect. I have narrow shoulders and full biceps and a C cup. I made this in a size 6 with absolutely no alterations. FWIW, length alterations could be difficult on this pattern due to the unusual shape of the front bodice.



Fabric:
Fabric was a linen/cotton blend made by Kaufman that I purchased from Fabric.com.  It is 55% linen and 45% cotton. I have used this blend before and really like it. It has been washed and does that non wrinkling linen thing that comes from washing. I love that it had the linen look but not the wrinkles.

I did Hong Kong seams as you can see. They are made with bias strips of poly charmeuse. I love how this looks on the inside. It makes me feel good. When I wore it to work I wore a black negative ease tee underneath, mostly because it was cold out. I didn't hesitate to take the top off and show my friends the inside. As my twenty something workmate said "I would wear that inside out". I bound the sleeves exactly the way it is shown in the latest issue of Threads, where the bias binding is attached using the same seamline as the sleeve, folding it over and ditch stitching in the well of the seam. Then the fabric was cut back to the seam line underneath.


Construction:

This is a pattern where you MUST follow the directions on the instruction sheet very closely. Marking all notches, circles and squares is critical here. The bodice/pocket construction is very unusual. I think I paid more attention to the directions on this pattern than I have on any other in a long time. One of the challenges were the Hong Kong seams. I decided I want to do this from the get go, but when it came to the pocket area I was stumped. I ended up doing them "after the fact" only finishing the pockets around the top three edges after they were installed. It was hard to figure out what I could HK seam before it was all constructed but you can do the most of it before seaming if you pay  close attention, particularly in the pocket area.

I did "foiling" on the pocket facings and the collar facings and the rectangle in the back bodice before any construction started. This pattern, like most Marcy patterns, is ripe for embellishment. Have fun with that!

In conclusion:

I really like this top. It's a bit "jacket-y" but that's OK in my cold climate. I love the linen blend fabric, the foiling and the uniqueness of the design. Being comfortable adds to my enjoyment as well. It was a fun challenge to sew and I really enjoyed that aspect. Will I make it again? Probably not as it is rather unique, but I really like the way the shoulders and upper bodice fit. That makes it a winner in my book.
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Last night we were able to get some fresh dug Maine clams up here in the boonies and I made us a dish of Clams and Linguine Rosa from Mario Batalli. What a feast!..............Bunny

36 comments:

  1. Oooh...I've been waiting to see the finished garment! You've done a beautiful job, especially with the uniquely you touches...the foiling and the HK finishing. I too, generally tend towards silhouettes that highlight the waistline, rather than hide it. Thanks for the heads up on that point. I'll have to be particularly careful about fabric choice and also what I wear the jacket with...providing I actually make it, LOL. Your version, as a top, looks lovely, and I can see that you have the versatility to wear it either as a top or as a jacket. I think for my version, I'll look for fabrics most suitable for outerwear.

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    1. I saw it made up, on another blog, out of a silky charmeuse print and it was lovely. It seemed to drape a bit better than the linen which I think accentuates the "swing" shape.

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    2. Ah...I see what you're saying Bunny. Isn't fabric selection the trickiest? I do my best to discern suitability by draping my dress form, but I still get it wrong some of the times. It's also potentially a bit of a trade-off. The relative crispness of your fabric shows off the collar and cuffs beautifully.

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  2. Love it!!! That foiling looks just right, not too much and the silver complements the grey fabric very well. This might be fun in a print for the collar, too. It may look like a maternity top to us, but remember now they are all snug to show off the baby bump, not hide it. Well done, I love the HK seams, I am tending to do that as well.

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    1. You are so right, Cynthia. Maternity tops today are all knit affairs. I guess I really dated myself with that description!

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  3. I love the foiling and thank you for the detailed post you wrote about the techniques. Beautiful insides to your jacket!

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  4. Oh, Bunny, this looks so great on you! The silver foiling looks fabulous against the grey!

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  5. It's actually a very lovely jacket, especially with your nice hair cut. I think it looks great over the pants - you look so petite underneath.

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  6. Bunny,
    This jacket is absolutely stunning on you. Perfect choice of fabric, colour and the new haircut is simply fabulous!!
    I think you just get me over to the casual style of dressing............but still chic and so elegant. Love, love, love this look on you.

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    1. Thanks. I don't usually wear this look but maybe I should give it more consideration. I do love the challenging sew.

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  7. I love the foiling and the HK finishes on the inside! I'm not usually one for complex patterns (I'm just a simple girl!) but you've done this very well by highlighting the complexity with just the right amount of foiling.That can be so tricky. Great job! I would never have thought that a Tilton pattern could look so good on a petite woman!

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    1. Interesting comment. I always think of Tilton as being petite as she sometimes seems so full of volume in her clothing choice. Maybe its just an illusion.

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  8. It turned out beautifully, Bunny....so unique & creative! The foil accents are really cool & I ADORE your new short haircut, too. So young looking!!! I smiled right back at that first photo & was glad to see your Ernie making you laugh.

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    1. Thanks, Rett. Glad my Ern made me make you laugh.

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  9. It is absolutely gorgeous. So interesting, so funky, so effortless (or so it appears!). Very nicely done.

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    1. Definitely a bit more challenging than effortless. That bodice front was tricky.

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  10. Great result Bunny. I too have made a few Tilton tops and they are certainly a funky statement but you do have to have your wits about you while sewing them.

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  11. Great top -- definitely an interesting garment. You did a beautiful job! I love the Hong Kong seams.

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    1. I am putting them in more and more garments, that's with my sergers sitting right next to me!

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  12. Just beautiful! I've seen other versions and this is one of the best!

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  13. Just lovely, Bunny! I just made this top (and the pants too), to wear to a Fall outdoor wedding. I feel so stylish in the outfit even though I'm at the other end of the sizing spectrum from you. I had a little trouble getting the side seams above and below the pocket extensions to meet even though, like you, I marked all notches, squares, and circles. Thanks for the ideas on inside finishing - I serged as many seams as I could and made notes on the pattern when to do the serging in case I ever make this again. It IS distinctive! On another note, I just found your blog a couple of weeks ago and have thoroughly enjoyed your tips and tutorials. I'm 70 and have been sewing a long time, but one can always learn something new. I didn't even know fusible batting tape existed and now it's a favorite. (I'm sure it's cheaper to cut strips of interfacing but I'm all for convenience.) I also loved your instructions for getting patterns back into the envelope neatly. It really works! Thank you!

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    1. Thanks, so much, Kat Z. I love that batting tape as it is quite soft but gives the needed body to a hem. It definitely is a challenging pattern. The front really puffed out if I let it go the way it was sewn, then pressed. I had to put steam to the lower bodice/pocket area to softly press it down. That helped bring it in line.

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  14. Such a beautiful jacket both inside and out. Most definitely a special unique piece.

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  15. I enjoyed your post about foiling techniques and will have to give it a try. I love the creative touches the foil adds to this jacket. I know what you mean about the oversized design but you pull it off, especially with slim pants to balance the jacket's volume. I prefer a slimmer fit so I don't use Marcy Tilton designs but the pocket details on this are intriguing.

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    1. Generally I prefer a fit that is a bit more body conscious, but definitely not snug so this was a new path for me. It sure is comfortable!
      The foiling is really easy.

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  16. What a gorgeous and beautifully finished jacket. You look great in it. You make me want to recreate it even though I'm tall and rather bigger so I don't think it would look quite as good on me.

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  17. What a gorgeous finished artful garment You really made the most of the details and tricky seaming and pockets and the collar...that collar is so perfect for framing your lovely face. I agree with the others about the perfect amount of foiling, I mean you could have gone nuts! Of course the inside is just as nice as the outside and almost could be worn inside out with the HK finishes, and such a nice bright color! This pattern has really been worth the effort and my only thought, if it were mine, would be to add small shoulder pads for my narrow shoulders on those slightly extended shoulder seams. Great job, Bunny!!!

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    1. Thanks, Jo. I think some slim shoulder pads could work and I'll give those a try but overall I am pretty happy with the look, albeit rather different for me.
      Yeah, it could have been real easy to overdue the foiling but I held myself back. I'l not a fan of being overly blinged out. Now think of this top with no foiling. Are we talking pregnant prison matron or what? This grey really needed some help.

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  18. That is very pretty and very becoming to you! The foiling gives it a very unique touch.

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  19. Lovely top, Bunny. Perfect amount of foiling, and the inside is a delight to the eyes. I prefer it paired with your slim pants rather than the fuller pants it was styled with on the pattern cover.

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  20. Late in my comment but still want to say how much I like it. Especially the combination of fabric and foil accents. Looks very good on you!

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