The left side of the muslin is "improved". . What you can't see is that on the right the princess seam, from about 3 inches above and below the bust has had the stitching removed.. It was way too tight. I opened the seams in that area on both sides, added additional fabric to the one on the left and resewed the seams. That meant that additional length was needed on the center front and you can see that the CF is split open from the bust point to CF for additional length. The hollow between the shoulder seam and bust apex is really pronounced on me and you can see where it is caved in. The best solution I have found for this over the years is to have a fill of interfacing, a "chest piece". I may add an additional layer of silk organza or even some heavier silk dupioni once the jacket is cut and basted. I know it is not in the original sweater type couture process of making one of these but you have to make it work on your own individual body. I am sure if Mssr. Lagerfeld is faced with a hollow upper chest he would deal with it appropriately and so will I. So the tweaked fit is on the left, not the right of the muslin. One thing that really surprised me about Vogue 8259, which I picked out immediately upon seeing the pattern, is the slope of the shoulder. In all my years of sewing, shoulder slope has never been an issue. My shoulders are definitely small but the slope has always been normal. This pattern slopes bigtime and I had to let out the should slope to a half inch at the top of the armscye. Beware. I fit this with a turtleneck underneath as that is more than likely how I will be wearing it. I know.....
So here is what I did to this pattern so far:
* Let the shoulder seam out tapering from nothing at the neckline to a half inch at the shoulder knob.
* Took in the center front seam from waist to hem. It flared out and just hung off my boobs.
* Recurved the entire princess seam, actually taking in a bit for my hollow chest, then expanding out an inch and a 1/4 at the bust apex . That inch and a quarter was on the side front. The center front only was increased a 1/4 inch. This became an S-dart.
* In the back I did a slight swayback adjustment at the waistline taking in about an 1/8th of an inch on the seamline, so actually a 1/4 inch removed. I then tapered out to the hipline.
* Added about a 1/2 inch at each side seam and center back, sloping out from about an inch below the waist to hemline.
* Did my usual petiting and length adjustments on the bodice and sleeves.
Next I have to put the sleeves together and do a mockup with the buttons. I am 90% sure it will be a shortened sleeve length with buttons and vents. That probably won't happen till the weekend.
I have been moving right along with McCoya's dress and it is darling. Must have smocked on it at least 3 hours today. Gottaluvit. Love those variegated threads. They really bring life to the party.....Bunny
Bunny - you're making very good progress here, and looks like you've tackled and solved most of your problems. I admire all you all so much who fit without a mannequin, I can't do it. I have to fit on the mannequin then try it on. I noticed the shoulder slope and how pronounced it was...are you going to try this on again with shoulder pads, or are you putting any in your jacket?...I think trying it on with a sweater is perfect, that's how you're going to wear it, how else will you know!
ReplyDeleteKeep up the good work, and stay the course! Like you said, you handle issues the way that best fits you, and that's what makes following all these blogs and learning so many different solutions is so awesome. I'm eager to watch your progress!
ReplyDeleteI have seriously thought of very thin shoulder pads only because I ALWAYS use them. Shoulder pads can be really thin and I know from past experience they help fill in that hollow. My shoulders are narrow enough that if use a pad it brings them to normal shape, nothing weird looking. I think I am going to let out the shoulders even more and see what happens with a slim pad.
ReplyDeleteThis is looking really good! I can't wait to see your smocking. I'm starting on an Easter dress today. I've finished one. Just 4 more to go. Next year there will be another!
ReplyDeleteI admire your attention to detail so much, Bunny! You put so much effort into a garment ahead of time, its no wonder they turn out so well. This one is going to be super special, I can tell.
ReplyDeleteBTW, which buttons did you decide to use? I must go back to look.
Happy Valentines Day to you & your Ern!!
Hugs,
Rett
Jury is still out on the buttons. I won't make the final decision until the jacket is nearly done.
ReplyDeleteI can totally understand all those fixes - mine are similar! I'm sure all of that will be worth for the final product.
ReplyDeleteOT - next month will be a monogrammed blouse in the Great Vintage Shirt Project.