January 2011 Pants completed

As I took these pictures the pants kept getting more and more static-y. It's very "winter" dry in our home and my skin is like an alligator's so please forgive the pants looking like they are sticking to themselves in places. They are! I have already purchased anti static lining for the next pair.

What I like about these pants:

• I like that they have a waistband. It adds length to my 5 foot tall frame.  To say it makes my legs look long would be a stretch, but it helps. Another reason I like the waistband is because my waistline dips in the front. On no waist pants it just drops and looks awful. Pants with a waist keep it in line where it is supposed to be.
• I like the way the legs taper in very slightly. Yes, I have wide hips. Yes, Stacy and Clinton say its a crime to not wear pants that fall straight from the widest part of your hips. But, back to the five foot tall thing, if I wear straight cut pants AND a style without a waistline, I look like a block, a nearly square block. So don't believe everything Stacy and Clinton tell you.
• I really like that I was able to conquer my lopsided hip bones, thanks to Nancy K's suggestion. It was simply a matter of cutting the right waistline higher, more later. Thanks again, Nancy. 
• FWIW, I don't like my clothing tight and these pants may be a little looser than the way some like their pants but they are the way I like them.

What I don't like about these pants:

• The back crotch seam, down low still has a bit of sag. I am not sure if I need to make the inseam shorter, or raise the crotch, or BOTH? Clearly further tweaking is in order.  I am sure the static isn't helping either. I will play with my muslin a bit more.
• I don't like the static. My next pair will be lined and with an anti static lining. 

Otherwise I am pretty happy and will continue to tweak the pants on the February pair.

I have had questions regarding my use of oaktag. First, where do I get big oaktag? I don't. I use manila folders and duct tape them together.

I did commit this pattern, which I copied from a pair of 20 year old pants, to the oak tag. I will make changes on it as I tweak along here. You can see how I had to make each separate piece due to the difference in my left and right sides.

Straight of grain is drawn on each piece and they are clearly labeled. I think it is important to put the date on the pants. A bit ago it occurred to me that it wouldn't be a bad idea to put my weight on the pieces as well. That way, next time I make a pair, I will hit the scale, something I don't do often, and can see if adjustments are coming. Its hard to see here but the details are drawn on with tracing paper and a tracing wheel, very easy. The darts are cut out to make the marking easier on the next pair. You can see the pockets drawn on as well. This pair didn't have pockets but the next will. .

Fitting changes I made:

• Again, about 20 years ago, I attended a traveling sewing seminar in NH. They focused on pants fitting and I was lucky enough to be picked to be the fitting model/ guinea pig for the afternoon. What I learned there I transferred later to what I think was a Donna Karan suit pattern's pants, not sure. First I reduced the leg length above the knee as well as below the knee to maintain the shape. She also gave us measurements based on our height for the width of the hem and I like what she came up with for my size. I usually didn't wear pants that narrow on the bottom and they seemed more flattering with her suggestion. Do you see the difference in the taper on the front piece and the back piece? That's how the original pattern was and it seems to work. Comments? I may try matching them on the muslin just to see what will happen. It would take some more volume out.Hmmmm.....
• Fast forward. I did Peggy Sager's technique on her website for changing pleated pants to darted ones. You can find it here.
• Next I added the height to the right side seam, both front and back, tapering to nothing at the first dart. 

I need to fine tune that rear a bit but overall I think it came out better than I planned. I am looking forward to February's pants which will have the slanted pockets, like the original and be traditionally lined. I may split the waist band at the back. We will see. The fabric for the next pair is another poly rayon and looks linen-y but is much softer and heavier, if that makes sense. It's a journey, isn't it?
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Thank you to everyone for all your lovely, kind, and inspiring comments on the Rose Sweater. Admiration from your peers is always wonderful to receive and I thank you so much. I really look forward to communicating with you all each day and so appreciate you stopping by to visit. It can be a bit isolating up here at this dreary time of year and being able to share time with others who totally understand my passion is such a gift. thank you,,,,Bunny