February 2011 Pants Finis!
Here are some details:
- The fabric is a rayon/poly blend, no lycra this time and I like that. The weave is that of a linen with some black and some copper colored threads. Like many rayons, it has a heavy drape. What looks snug around the waist hip area really has plenty ease. It just drapes downward from its own weight.
- These pants are fairly heavy. They are lined fully with a poly anti static lining.
- They feel great. That stay just seems to give you some sort of oomph going on in there. You can see that it DOES NOT pull in the side seams and yes, the stay is smaller than the pants, all just a matter of cutting right and following directions.
- This pair has slanted side pockets. They lay really nicely, again a contribution from the stay.
Things I did to this pair and not the last pair:
- The fit has been tweaked. I cut the side seams, from the bottom of the pocket to the hem 3/8ths of an inch deeper letting the pant legs fit more closely.
- I changed the crotch curve, lifting the front curve a half inch and tapering it into the back curve. I think it looks better, do you?
- I did Sandra Betzina's fly but also followed her suggestion to iron the stretch out of the bias rear crotch points. I stretched them with the steam iron and then re cut the pant leg.
- I interfaced the rear crotch points with armo weft interfacing as suggested by Claire Kennedy. I think it helps a lot.
- I made the pants longer. Whenever you make pants you are faced at the end with the decision, do I hem for flat shoes, sneakers, or heels? I decided on this pair I would hem for heels. Maybe some of you tall sewists don't concern yourself with this but with my height a quarter inch can be the difference between looking chic and stupid.
- These are fully lined. I handstitched them around the zipper area and did a Hong Kong treatment on the inner waistband.
Your comments re: the wearable art conundrum were very interesting. Thanks to all of those who shared their thoughts. .....Bunny