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Friday, March 11, 2011

Flat Lining, Part Two, Fly Front, Pockets and Stay

On to the front of the pants! These pants have a slanted side pocket, a front stay, a fly zipper and a dart.
Because of the stay, the dart must be put in first. After the dart is installed, interface the fly extension. Next tape your pocket edge. All of this must be done first because of the front stay.

I was out of dark fusible but this weft insertion doesn't show from the front and worked fine.
With the front details done, go ahead and install the pockets and stay as your pattern instructs. The pocket edge was topstitched before the stay was put on and machine basted shut before proceeding with the lining. If you need some help, here is a link to the tute I did on putting in a stay on the last pair of pants. The fabric used for these pants seemed more sensitive to showing ridges when ironed so I did not serge the edges of the pocket or stay. I used a tight stitch length instead.  Once the pocket and stay are installed you can go ahead and do the "flat lining" the same way it was done on the pants back legs with one difference.Put your dart in on the lining so that it faces the inside. You can see the dart completed in the pic below.
Once again, only the vertical seams get enclosed. That means you will stitch the fly extension but none of the curved seam below. You could go ahead and serge this area. I am going to wait until the crotch seam is sewn and then trim and zigzag together. This is how it was handled in the Threads article, more or less. They were showing more specifically how to do a back vent. I will also do a Hong Kong finish on the straight section of the center back seam.

Once all your flat lining is complete, install the fly and sew it up! Obviously this should be done on a pattern that you  know fits without further alteration. Remember, all your VERTICAL SEAMS will be sewn with a HALF INCH SEAM ALLOWANCE. All others will default to the 5/8ths. Once the hem is established, finish that off  with a Hong Kong finish as well. I'll be back with pics of the completed pants this weekend. I also have another special to surprise to show!..Bunny


  1. Bunny I am really loving this post/tutorial! Thank you.

  2. I am so impressed! Everything looks so smooth and neat and, well, perfect! I think I need to get better and more comfortable with making pants before I try flat lining, but seeing it, it is definitely something to aim towards.

  3. this is such a great technique, I can't wait to try it. I get so many fantastic tips from Threads, thanks for showing this one.

  4. Thank you for your blog showing this technique. This will be used on next pant sewing project.


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