The Miyake shirt is moving along while I wait for measurements to cut out Sophie's outfit. Marking on Miyake garments is critical and this is no exception. The back of the shirt has an inverted pleat with a small amount of the top and a good amount of the bottom of the pleat stitched closed. I did the pleat as directed but as I often do with pleats, I stitched the edges of the pleat on the inside of the shirt. This trick keeps the pleat neat and folded. This doesn't mean I stitched the pleat to the shirt. What I did was just edge stitch the edges of the pleat on each side on the inside of the garment.
Once the pleat is stitched and pressed a triangle is stitched at the top and bottom of the pleat. I decided to stitch the triangle with a tiny zigzag to give it some casual emphasis. My stitch length was .35 and the width was 1.0. I then took a sticky label and cut it into a triangle. This was stuck to the the appropriate spot and stitched around.
I like the look. Next I needed to do the piping which will be going around the cuffs, neck, and shoulder seams. It is cut from a third shirting fabric. I am so used to doing piping for heirloom that I cut my width too narrow for a 5/8ths seam. I just moved it back an 1/8th of an inch from the edge.
The shoulder seam was serged after stitching and then topstitched. This morning I will start the application of the the odd collar to the shirt....Bunny