I am quickly losing the love for this pattern. I am going to give it another go and have spent the day reworking and recutting a new muslin. I will put it together tomorrow. The armscye measures 17 inches. To put that in perspective I took a measuring tape, made a 17 inch loop and clipped it, and put a roll of tape in the middle. THIS IS SMALL. And I'm pretty small . Who is this fitting?
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At this point I have made so many adjustments my head is spinning. Fingers are crossed and as Ms. Scarlet O'Hara said, "I will think about it tormorrow."...Bunny
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At this point I have made so many adjustments my head is spinning. Fingers are crossed and as Ms. Scarlet O'Hara said, "I will think about it tormorrow."...Bunny
Bunny, how frustrating for you. I know if anyone can figure it out you can.
ReplyDeleteYes, tomorrow is another day!
Nonie
I don' t know if you've seen this thesis from North Carolina State University,
ReplyDeletehttp://repository.lib.ncsu.edu/ir/bitstream/1840.16/7392/1/etd.pdf
but it was a real eye opener. It's disgraceful that the pattern companies have little interest in fixing their fit problems. It's a wonder anyone bothers to sew, if this is the shoddy kind of work that the companies do. And it points to a big reason new sewers abandon clothing making. Your jacket muslin is a fine example of all the issues - too big in the upper chest and back, too small at the bust, too much room in the armscye. I'd say the pattern companies should be ashamed of themselves, but they are in the printing business, not fashion or fit. I prefer smaller pattern companies that hew more closely to modern fit (and real fit).
for a simple jacket there are a hell of a lot of issues to be fixed. Are you that much in love with the design? Personally, I'd chalk it up to a bad pattern and call it a day.
ReplyDeleteNancy, I am so close to doing that. I just put together Muslin #2 and will post that tomorrow. I think I have most of the issues set except for that sagging front neckline. The good news is I think I have an easy solution for that. Stay posted. If I can't get this second one right it will be time to move on.
DeleteThank goodness for muslins. I too make them most of the time for new patterns.
ReplyDeleteI am not a fan of Marcy Tilton patterns any more. I love the look of her designs, but the patterns are so disappointing in fit and construction.. Because I only buy Vogue patterns at the Joann Fabrics when they are $3.99, I felt I haven't lost too much. I even broke my rbasic rule of pattern buyng: if it doesn't. show a live model, leave it alone. I loved the upside down jacket. No. No. No.
ReplyDeletejann
Bunny - I'm sorta with Nancy on this. There's a Burda that's sort of a look-a-like (in the collar area) http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/boxy-jacket-092012
ReplyDeleteI just find Burda cut better (and more alterable). Although this pattern doesn't have set in sleeves....what you could do (and this wouldn't take that much time but get you closer to your look), is trace off the neckline from the Burda pattern onto a great TNT body that you love, and then use the Burda neck piece. Personally I don't like the ending (sort of look like it's pointing out in space in a Singing Nunequese sort of way!!!!).
Marcy must be large through the bust and shoulder area, cause all her patterns are cut large there. I usually cut according to shoulder measurement and then go from there (widen the waist area, add an FBA and anything else that needs work). The thing is that her lines are so dang temptingly good, but just know that when you get into the meat of the pattern that it's going to have a large upper body ease or build or whatever. In this case, her shoulder line is very extended but the armscye is very shallow (meaning the underarm is high), causing massive puckering, smiling, etc., under the arm. To fix that you gotta pull in those armholes (I think a pull from CB & CF is probably easiest), then you gotta deepen that armskye (which requires a split in the pattern probably about 2" to 3" below the shoulder line and above the armhole adding about 1" or so. If you wanna draw that armskye line in, you can, the split is the easiest way to preserve that curve line.
To fix the drooping collar, it needs to have a tighter arc on the curve of the jacket - but how much tighter is up to you.
It might be easier to peruse through the Burda, Simplicity (yep, I'm liking their patterns a long especially their Amazingly Fit collection), New Look - but I'm really using Burda almost exclusively these days....to many probs with the others or not enough style. Let's put it this way, if I'm not sure what Burda is trying to do with a particular pattern, then after I make it I get it - but most of the time it's pretty evident what they are trying to do in their patterns which I appreciate.
I wish my arms could stretch through the blogosphere to your studio for a pinch here, and drawn line there and a slit here, cause you've really done a lot of work already and it's a shame to throw all that out, when there's just a few technical details left to go. The problem is that when you fix the biggies, then the small ones begin to pop out, and although that sounds like a never-ending trek, it does end!!! Good luck!!!
Claire, you hit the nail on the head in the second paragraph. I have decided to move on and spent the evening looking at patterns. Haven't gotten to Burda yet. Thanks so much for your suggestions. I really learned something with this pattern. Thing is I really like her styles but they just don't work for me and that is underlined! Thanks again.
DeleteI'm late to the party, but I agree with Nancy and Claire. Too much trouble, time for a new pattern - darn.
ReplyDelete