The rayon top is done and got some good feedback. I will get right into the details.
The pattern is Butterick 5387 and I have made it before. If you check PR, you will see that there are many who had issues with the collar band and center front opening. I did too but it made much more sense this time than the first time I made it. While I did it a bit differently, only because it is hard to understand the drawing and directions, I managed to get the necessary final effect on the band.
One thing about this pattern to pay attention to: this is in direct relation to our NLS post #4 about patterns. If you look at the front of the pattern there are four views. Only view A has what appears to be a center front seam. The other views show the front seam definitely moved to the side of the bodice, looking like it's running right over the apex of the bust. Not...the only difference between views is the sleeve style. No view has a pattern piece making the seam left or right of center front. When I originally bought this pattern I was specifically looking for the assymetrical front. It doesn't exist. Beware! Also, my pattern has two tops with the pleats on the left and two with the pleats on the right. It looks like Butterick has since corrected that.
I used a size 6 with an FBA, basically the cheater knit one where you add more length to the bust by rounding out in the side seam on the front and adding a bit of length too.
The pattern could be MUCH clearer in it's explanation of bringing the pleats around the band. Steps 18 and 19 make you go huh?????? But somehow I got it to work but I ended up with the seam of that whole debacle not being hidden. So I trimmed it, catchstitched to the band, and it works and looks just fine. This one is a real handholder, if you know someone.
True confessions time. This was in the Joanns clearance sale. It's a Rayon, lycra blend and while it wasn't passionate love, I felt it would mimic the blouse I saw in a Mary Ray post on the Threads website. So for a few dollars I gave it a whirl. The pleating and tucking are irregular and random.
It is very thin so undies and my dressform react to the camera and show through, much more so than in real life. In my pics I have on a nude cami which helps. Think tissue paper with pleat texturing and you've got this fabric. It stretches bigtime and this is a snug pattern but I am comfortable with that look in this one. Part of that is because of the godets.
The tricot fusible I used to line the hem shows through from the flash as well but really not at all in real life. I love that stuff. It is found in the quilt department of JAs and called quilt seaming tape. It is the exact same stuff that is sold for the big bucks on line as fusible tricot stay tape. It makes a great knit hem. I iron it on, turn up a knit hem and either topstitch or catchstitch.
This was like herding cats to sew. I helped that situation by starching and ironing each seam before sewing. If I did it again I would do a "jello blouse" to quote someone more clever than myself. That is the technique where you soak your flimsy thin fabric in gelatin to give it stiffness and it works really well.
What veered from the pattern were the band issues already mentioned, the fused hem, and my addition of the the godets in the side seam.
This was simple and easy. I left open the side seam about nine inches, from the waist level to the hem. I then cut strips of the fabric 11 x 22 inches wide. That gave me enough length to run the strip from hem up to the closed side seam and down to the other hem. I stitched it in easily. Then I opened the whole thing out flat and trimmed the godet hem so that it was circular and both equal. Starch and hem and we were done! As one of my friends said. it gives me some "swish" and she liked that idea. I just liked the idea of jazzing up a pretty simple design.
Would I recommend this? With reservations. This would not be a beginner pattern due to the neck band difficulties, IMO. But I think if you power through you have a nice top and I do promise the second one will be easier, maybe not made the way the pattern says, but easier. If it's your first effort get a more forgiving type of fabric. An ITY knit would be perfect and I may make another. I do like this pattern..........Bunny