While I have several posts on the blog about my previous excursion into cushion making, it occurred to me today that I didn't show what to do when you have finished stitching the cording/welting to the home dec fabric. They need to meet in a smooth, rather unnoticeable way and that can get a bit tricky to do.
On this project I am attaching welting all around the rectangle of fabric that will make the top of the cushion. The bottom of the cushion will get the same treatment. There will be a band of fabric, aka, "boxing" running around the perimeter of the cushion but that's later!
On the seam that attaches the welting to the rectangular base, both raw edges are met, just like sewing any seam. I've made my seam and my welting seam allowances just a hair under a half inch . Stitching will begin about 2 inches up from the end of the welting. The welting is attached all around the rectangle.Stop sewing approximately two inches before the start of the seam.
You should now have an unsewn area of about two inches on the rectangle and couple of dangling pieces of covered welting.
Trim the right hand welting to one inch in length. Open up the stitches on the left hand welting. Put some Fray Block on both ends to stop unravelling.
Go to the ironing board. Move the cord out of the way. Trim and fold back the end of the left hand welt and press into place. The left hand welt will need to be trimmed so that it is long enough to cover the right hand welt by about1/2-3/4 of an inch once folded and in place.
Wrap the fabric covering the left welt over the trimmed right welt. Trim and Fray Bloc the left cord so it meets up with the right cord.
Pin and take it to the machine. You can see my wet Fray bloc in all the pics.
Still wet with Fray Bloc but done! Two points: this technique can be used with any sort of corded piping. Here it is on Home Dec but I have often used it with baby piping. Also, an effort should be made to plan the welting so that the joins are far away visually, in this case on the short side of the cushion. Happy welting!......................Bunny
On this project I am attaching welting all around the rectangle of fabric that will make the top of the cushion. The bottom of the cushion will get the same treatment. There will be a band of fabric, aka, "boxing" running around the perimeter of the cushion but that's later!
On the seam that attaches the welting to the rectangular base, both raw edges are met, just like sewing any seam. I've made my seam and my welting seam allowances just a hair under a half inch . Stitching will begin about 2 inches up from the end of the welting. The welting is attached all around the rectangle.Stop sewing approximately two inches before the start of the seam.
You should now have an unsewn area of about two inches on the rectangle and couple of dangling pieces of covered welting.
Trim the right hand welting to one inch in length. Open up the stitches on the left hand welting. Put some Fray Block on both ends to stop unravelling.
Go to the ironing board. Move the cord out of the way. Trim and fold back the end of the left hand welt and press into place. The left hand welt will need to be trimmed so that it is long enough to cover the right hand welt by about1/2-3/4 of an inch once folded and in place.
Wrap the fabric covering the left welt over the trimmed right welt. Trim and Fray Bloc the left cord so it meets up with the right cord.
Pin and take it to the machine. You can see my wet Fray bloc in all the pics.
Stitch with a 1.5 stitch length over the unstitched area.
Thank you for this excellent tutorial. Great photos and descriptions.
ReplyDeleteThs info is just in time as I really need to make some cushions.
ReplyDeleteSo slick!. So neat! I'll have to remember to bring out the Fray Check next time, too! Thanks Bunny!
ReplyDeleteYou are welcome, ladies. That last pic blurs towards the left, sorry about that. The Fray Check or Bloc is indispensable here. I think I will put this up on the tutorial board to save future searching.
ReplyDeleteThe entire project will be sewn with this ski style zipper foot, as recommended in my bible of all things Home Dec: the Sunset book of Slipcovers.
Noice! I trim out the piping cord until it would be flush, then feed both empty ends into the seam allowance so they cross over. It works a treat on smaller piping but not on the big fat stuff. I love this and it has never occurred to me to use fray stop which is very sensibibble!
ReplyDeleteI have done that too, with my baby cording. It works quite well with the really narrow piping.
DeletePerfection. And clearly that Fray check is brilliant!
ReplyDeleteBest, most concise tutorial I've seen on this subject!
ReplyDeleteThankyou for this information .
ReplyDeleteFray check is one of my favorite sewing products, I use it on buttonholes, mistakes, and now for piping! Thanks for the great tutorial.
ReplyDeleteThank you for this tutorial - very helpful!
ReplyDelete