When I see versions online of Zero Waste garments, sorry, they look like either wrapped bath towels or large pieces of yardage pushed into a smaller rectangle made to look like a wrapped bath towel. I have yet to see anything I or anyone I know would wear. I am not talking garments like sheath dresses where the maker has used the leftover pieces of fabric to make a bag or a stuffed animal or such. I am talking one piece of yardage made into an entire garment.
I love Studio Faro and their amazing designs. Here is one of their takes on a zero waste design: http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited/pattern-puzzle-squares-zero-waste I won't publish any pics as I have found fashion pics have a way of disappearing from the web over time so please click to get my drift. This is a very creative design but I would never be caught dead in it. Is it brilliant? Total use of the yardage for sure. Would it work in the hills and lakes of New Hampshire Mmmmm......maybe in a local coven. Definitely not for me but could work in a more sophisticated environment like NYC or Milan.
Now before you think I am anti Zero Waste, let's go back to the very beginning----of time. You've all seen those memes circulating with "old fogies" telling millennials about how recycling and green living were invented back in the day. They list things like glass milk bottles being returned and reused each week; paper bags covering books at school; yada, yada, yada. I even remember the ice boats we made from old hockey ice skates, old sheets and some discarded 2x4s. Wow, they flew across the lake and what fun! I am from the pre all plastic generation and it is true. We actually mended clothes and that's coming back now too as if it is the new big thing! I do think some of the work of Celia Pym and her peers is positively artful.
Back when I was fresh out of college and wanted a real job I got one in a garment factory. At the time it was the largest manufacturer of men's clothing in the world. We had 5000 employees and turned out 150,000 men's suits on an average week back when men wore a lot of suits. I worked my way up from receptionist to admin assistant to the treasurer of the company. It was fascinating. I loved it and was surrounded by fabric. I LEARNED A LOT. All that to say that the mill next door got all our scraps, much of which were 100 % wool. They got all the scraps from all the textile mills in a city of more textile mills than you could count. There was NO waste. They did not bale them up and send them to India or Bangladesh. They "reprocessed" them. The were shredded and chopped and made into tiny litle fibers that went to other clever manufacturers in our city of textile manufacturers. They were remade into other items from new fabrics to carpet pad and more. I mean, 2021, Duh..... can we not do this???
* The Fashion Industry can expend it's efforts on cleaning up the environment by utilizing natural fibers and mindful dyeing processes. Anyone who ever lived in a textile manufacturing center can drive through with you blindfolded and tell exactly where the rayon is manufactured, where the big dye works are, etc. They STINK specifically with their unique odors and pollute their surroundings. Let's use our science and brains in the textile industry to cleanup our act here, not waste time on zero waste garments.
Ethnic historical patterns seem to have done a better job of using all the fabric, in my opinion. Kimonos, for example, and other garments in the book CUT MY COTE. I'm afraid the current crop of zero waste patterns for the most part are just not something I'd want to wear. Massive textile waste is in commercial settings and I would guess not much of a problem in the home sewing realm.
ReplyDeleteAgree. I haven't thought of the ethnic angle but you are right.
DeleteI agree with you 100% on all your points. Jean
ReplyDeletewell made points - the past is definitely another country when it comes to excessive production. Turning shirt collars was still 'a thing' when I was at school in the 80s as was covering books. When I was in Paris at aged 20 I arrived with a backpack and stayed the year. I wrote my sister a letter describing how I was budgeting for some new winter clothes and priced it all out. I saw the letter a few years ago and was surprised by the prices (a semi decent pair of shoes was 60 which would have had leather uppers and the pair I got then lasted me for 6 years as I recall). Clothing prices havent really changed that much but our income has increased, so there are a lot of things being squeezed out
ReplyDeleteRe zero waste - I have made a few patterns, mainly basted on folk garments and if made with fancy fabric they really come into their own. My main preference on a type of zero waste approach, is to remake clothes now from thrifted items when I can.
Yes, that is something I have done as well and did from as far back as my teens. I still do it. I get upset when I hear people speak of "wadders". There should be no wadders. That is simply fabric that can be reused in a different way, different pattern or something else. I would love to eliminate that word from the sewing vocabulary.
DeleteThank you! I found this so refreshing to read and so well said.
ReplyDeleteSING IT, sister!!! You've put this whole thing into perfect perspective.
ReplyDeleteSuch wisdom, Bunny! I was a child of the 50’s too. Two “outfits” per season were in my closet, one usually a hand me down, and never a sense that I didn’t have enough. Please let's continue this conversation. As sewists we can inspire and teach young people to learn to sew. I’ve mentored all ages of boys and girls over the years. I hope the fast fashion idea will fade as we educate ourselves and others.
ReplyDeleteOne more thing: How can we reuse or recycle muslins that we make for pattern fitting?
ReplyDeleteI keep them. I have made muslins out of older muslins. I know some like to use them as the actual patterns but I am more comfortable working with a new fresh hard copy so commit my muslin changes to permanent oaktag. I use them sometimes for bias edges, sampling stitches, etc. You know we throw out nothing, ;) Oh, they are always used to sample my painting techniques as well.
DeleteI pre-shrink my muslin fabric before making any toiles with it, so that I can make quilts out of the scraps.
DeleteThis is excellent commentary. I agree wholeheartedly. One additional point: in the "old days" people made quilts from their sewing scraps. This was the original "zero waste" method.
ReplyDeleteYes, the ultimate zero waste and look how that has evolved. Thanks so muc for the reminder.
DeleteNot to be the contrarian here but criswoodsews has made the Envelope Dress and the Throw which is a zero waste dress and the Throw is a jacket also zero waste. While you may not want to wear those styles they do look great on a number of women whose heights, weights, shapes and sizes vary. Personally the styles suit me and I went crazy last summer and made six dresses and three jackets. And a recent one for Christmas in a beautiful red rayon crinkle crepe that is so comfortable I can hardly bear to take it off. If you or your readers go to Cris's instagram of the same name to see a huge array of supremely attractive clothes.
ReplyDeleteRhonda Buss of sewbussted blog and instagram has posted over the years many free patterns that are essentially zero waste and which look fabulous on her. I tried a beach over up she recommended and it is fabulous and couldn't be more simple.
And yet on others points you made I totally agree. I've seen weavers make clothes who were afraid to cut into their precious fabrics and make garments that were virtually unwearable. So who wins in that situation.
That was a very good and provocative piece. Love tour work history story.
Thank you for your comments and I really appreciate your viewpoint. I will definitely check out those garments. My point is we really need to have a bigger view of this dilemma of fast fashion and the damage it is doing to our earth. I fault the fashion industry for nearly all of it and feel they have the responsibility and the power to right the situation. I feel sewists live green ideals every day with their sewing and have always done so. We are already doing our part. It is time for big fashion to do theirs.
DeleteThank you for pointing out the envelope dress. I don't know quite how else to say this. I just don't care for this. Different strokes for different folks and that is totally fine. I respect that others may like and look good in it and may not like my style at all and I am fine with that. Again, I haven't seen one zero waste garment yet that I would buy or make. I really thank you for sharing your view point with me and all readers. Greatly appreciated.
DeleteI agree with you about most of the zero waste clothes although I don't have such objections to a loose jacket. The problem of not wasting fabric is very much to the front for handweavers as we don't want to spend hours making our fabric and then throwing any away, although we do have the advantage of being able to weave the same fabric in more than one width to be most economical, but apparently we are now at the front of the ecology fashion movement by always having wanted 'zero waste' of our unique fabrics.
ReplyDeleteMy mum was a dressmaking teacher and we always laid out the pattern before we bought the fabric as it is often quite simple to fit the pieces in a different order or just closer together and save quite a bit on the yardage needed - that save money as well as avoiding waste fabric. The remaining scraps were used to make dolls clothes, patchwork, appliques on embroidery. I don't think though that it ever occurred to us to compost natural fibre scraps even though she was a keen gardener with two enormous compost heaps. Now I incorporate fabric scraps into weaving too.
Your fabric scraps incorporated into your weaving sound so artful. I would love to see your work. I wondered about the opinion weavers held about this subject as their product is so valuable. It is so easy for us to make the items you mentioned out of our mundane scraps of cotton and linens and such but hand wovens and they look rather wonderful. I have such respect for hand wovens that I only see them in the most artful of garments and accessories yet you manage to use them as us mortals use our shirt cottons. I imagine they are wonderful. I did make a nice clutch bag out of a great Linton style boucle once. I bet a bag like that would be wonderful in your lovely woven fabrics. Thank you for your insight from the other side of the loom.
DeleteThe original no-waste garment designs (saris, ponchos, kimono, serapes) were made using lengths of selvedge-to-selvedge yardage. Who wants to cut into fabric you've woven yourself? Plus they accommodated a variety of shapes and sizes, including pregnancy. The whole concept of chopping up fabric into shapes to make form-fitting clothing is relatively recent in history. Of course it was originally reserved for the wealthy (the working classes still wore what we call "peasant" blouses and gathered skirts)....but as fabric got cheaper, the masses were able to have fitted clothing. Fast forward to now when wholesale fabric is available dirt-cheap and new styles come out daily, and you've got a planet full of trashed clothing. Designing styles where excess fabric is added back into the garment for no reason (except to use it up) is not the solution. Thoughtful planning and careful shopping is the answer.
ReplyDeleteBunny, I read this with great interest. I'm a temp editor at the Sewcialists and this month is Zero Waste sewing month. Personally, it's not for me? I think your take is spot on from my personal perspective.
ReplyDeleteGreat post. I read Elizabeth Cline's book last year. It was a real eye-opener to how much damage is being done by pushing "fast fashion". Her book is a must read.
ReplyDeleteTotally agree about fast fashion but I do think the modern home sewing world has a few questions to answer. Not to mention the knitters. You only have to subscribe to a few blogs or podcasts or YouTube channels to find yourself bombarded with thinly disguised marketing for this and that new pattern or new fabric, neither of which you actually need.
ReplyDeleteAnd where did the idea come from that it was a badge of honour to have a stash of fabrics or yarns which even if you never bought another thing you could never use up before you die.
Before anyone thinks I'm being self-righteous I both sew and knit and I now have a whole room in my house devoted to storing my stashes and practising my crafts. I am lucky. But I do feel sometimes that I am on a treadmill trying to use up my stashes and trying even harder to resist the temptation of the latest thing. In my youth (I'm now in my 60s) I never had stashes of materials. I bought for each project and maybe had a few scraps left which got used creatively. My advice to anyone starting out in this sewing/knitting world would be to avoid the stash if you possibly can. There is always more fabric and yarn out there for you to buy when you have firm plans and the time to use it.
Liz Haywood over at The Craft of Clothes has done some amazing zero waste patterns. They may not change your mind but they are well worth checking out.
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