Fabric:
I went into Joanns several times and each time the beautiful colors and abstract design of this flannel kept nagging me. What would I make with it? But it was Snuggle flannel. Now I've had inconsistent experiences with Snuggles but this was something new, a softer, definitely higher thread count Snuggle, something they called "Super Snuggle." The price was right at 4.99 so I said WTH and got a couple yards. It washed beautifully, NO shrinkage in this piece at all and the color maintained. I've sewn a lot of snuggle over the years. This is better. The thread count is definitely higher than the old snuggle and it sewed beautifully. Check out this photo. Look for the raw edges.
After handling it a lot, this is while I was messing with the welt pockets. Throughout, there was next to only the slightest evidence of ravelling. The old snuggle was horrid for ravelling as it was so thin. I highly recommend Super Snuggle.
Pattern:
This pattern is the Pogonip Pullover from Friday Pattern Company. This is my second adventure with this company and I have to say they provide an excellent product. I previously made the Donny shirt which you can see here. Their directions are very clear. I want to stress here that , probably like you, welt pockets are not my favorite sewing technique to play with. I've tried many methods over the years from many different patterns and experts and books. I've never quite found the magic formula. I am here to tell you, it is in this pattern. I am going to make hard copies of just the welt instructions to keep at hand so I can make more with confidence and success. It was worth buying the pattern for the great lesson on this process. I have now had two successful garments made from Friday Patterns, both of which I hope to make again. This pattern comes in paper or PDF and I used the PDF.
You can wear the pullover pulled down over the hips, how you see it above from the back. You can also wear it with the elastic cut a bit shorter, more to fit the waist, my preferred style, and pulled up to the waistline. (That's my beautiful Japanese Maple enjoying its third Autumn in New England right now. )
The cut is full with lots of ease. I did do a few minor alterations. I made the sleeves an inch and a half shorter than the pattern, my usual change. I also switched from a one inch elastic waistband to a 1 1/2 inch elastic waistband, therefore, I had to cut the fabric waist band wider. I like it that way and did so based on the suggestion of a couple of other makers of this top. That was it for alterations as there is plenty of ease. It is length issues that had my concern. I love how decideing where to unbutton the placket can give you two very different looks. It also enables the making of this top with lighter fabrics like linens and cottons for warmer months.
Above is pulled up around my waist.
Construction:
I really think this can be made by a a beginner who has made a few things. The directions are that clear. There is a seam across the bodice front that makes it all so simple. The top part has the placket and the bottom has the pockets. You work them separately and then stitch that seam across and the front is complete. With no stand, the collar insertion is very simple as well.
Here is a closeup of the placket. For buttons I chose 3 vintage metallic buttons, classic blazer types. They are all the same size but have slightly different faces. You would never know. Their finishes are exactly the same and I embrace their difference. Since the placket is not inserted, it is quite easy to construct.
The welts truly do blend into the garment when you make them of the same fabric. I may consider using a contrast the next time I make a Pogonip. I've seen many of these colorblocked and it looks wonderful. No tricks here, just follow the great welt directions. The only topstitching I chose to do was on the welts and a bit on the placket. I used the "heinous stitch" on my machine, the one many call the "stretch stitch" that goes back and forth over itself a couple of times. It makes a beautiful topstitch, nice and thick.
My side, sleeve and armscye seams were all French seams. The construction method used pretty much closes everything else.
About the only thing I will warn you to be careful of with this design is the pocket installation. You can see here I used a lightweight fabric for my pocket and lining. I saw several makers wish they had put in thinner linings. What I will warn you about is how critical it is to clearly mark the pieces of pocket and pocket lining with side and piece as you see above. These two pieces, the pocket and pocket lining, are only the slightest bit different but different they are so it is really important to get this right. Make sure you mark your pieces the minute you cut them. Critical !!!
In Conclusion:
This is a great design from a great and reliable pattern company. It is doable without frustration unless you don't mark those pocket pieces. It is versatile as you can make it in fleeces to linens and wear the design year round. Many wear it in linen as a summer top which I plan to do. It can be color blocked or patchworked which brings up all sorts of creative opportunities. Fit is minimal, mostly length issues in the sleeves. I like the wider waistband I made with the inch and a half wide elastic. Don't hesitate to get this pattern. I think you can make it, make it your own creatively and succeed with its construction.
Happy Fall and Winter Sewing! I have much planned.......................Bunny
OK, I'm very tempted to buy the pattern for the Welt pocket. Can you give a high-level comparison to other welt pocket instructions? When I was sewing constantly in the 70s and 80s, I made a ton of welt pockets, but not sewing for 20 years and slowly getting back to the good details, I have yet to make even a sample. Hope you will be share a general description - I don't expect you to share all of the details, but tempt us!
ReplyDeleteLike many, I've sewn a fair amount of welt pockets, particularly when I used to make a lot of suits for work. Now I make them once in a while and need my memory jogged every time. Whenever I've made them in the past I used whatever directions were given with the pattern. I just remember they all seem to have different methods. Then I started checking my books, differences there too. More recently I put them on my velvet bomber jacket. The instructions on the pattern weren't the clearest so I started hunting down youtube lessons. They certainly varied in clarity. Ugh. What stands out about this pattern is the clarity of the instructions. Nothing is left for you to question. I went and watched their sew along video of the Pogonip and while it was pretty good, I saw an issue or two while watching the welt process. I can't remember exactly the process and it's late at night but it's right on YT with a search for Pogonip sew along. The written instructions and illustrations in the pattern were clearer and perfect in their direction. I hope this entices you Mary. This is a really nice pattern. Give it a try. It's great to hear from you and I hope all is well.
DeleteJust want to add that I think the biggest difference is the clarity and simplicity of the instructions. Friday Patterns really seems to have a knack for clear, simple direction.
DeleteJust want to add that I did not petite this pattern across the bodice as I usually do. I like the full bodice and left it that way. I did flat pattern measure all the pieces before cutting.
ReplyDeleteThanks for your thorough review Bunny. Your lovely pullover is inspiring.
ReplyDeleteThank you
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