Missed you all, sewing friends! Family, fun and flus do have a way of getting in the way of blogging but they didn't stop me from sewing! I have some interesting projects finished that I am excited to discuss with you. I have finished two Sewing Therapy "Faux Collar Oversize Button Down Shirts" and have overflowing opinion on them! I hope you all have spent some lovely holidays with loved ones and are now back to filling the New Year with lots of intentional sewing plans. I can't wait to see what you make as I cruise the web. Let's get going on what I will shorten to the "Popcorn Shirt", lots easier to write out and say!
Pattern:
I have been entranced by all the designs by Sara of Sewing Therapy, although she seems to also have another company, Two O Nine, which sells her designs so that got a bit confusing as I was searching out the pattern for this top. I originally found them on Youtube and they really seem destined for a petite and I like the Asian influence they seem to have. However, they did have their downside.
I absolutely love my top. It's unique and the fabric is fabulous and is much more appreciated IRL. I've recieved many compliments on it. I've read reviews from others and they seem overwhelmingly in love with the pattern as well. Maybe it's a case of you don't know what you don't know but the actual pattern instructions leave a lot to be desired.
I used US size 0, the smallest size, which gave a finished bust of 45.3 in., waist and hips of 49.3 in. and a back length of 23.3 inches for the tucked version. I was making the cropped version but highly recommend cutting the tucked version so you can adjust the length to your liking further on at the end. As you can see this top is truly oversized so no fit issues unless you don't care for that sort of fit. It is to be expected to be very large so be prepared. You can see how it fit me, five feet tall and 33, 26 1/2, 36. (sigh........sinking and shrinking).
I also took this opportunity to try out the grid method of dealing with PDF patterns. It supposedly gives perfect accuracy, no taping and is quicker. Not quite, but some good points, so here is a link to help with that: Using grid interfacing to trace PDFs It does involve tape, but I found in a good way.
Before we go any further. the pattern instruction tells you that you can watch a "detailed step by step sewing tutorial" on Sewing Therapy's youtube channel. While it was there and I watched it several times I did fully expect the instructions that came with the PDF to detailed and step by step as well. Grant you, I could have sewn this shirt without any instructions but this was my first frustration. Next, there was no pattern layout, simply a bullet list of how many pieces to cut of each pattern piece headed by a bolded large "CUT THE PATTERN". The instructions do, barely, show the layout for taping your printing option. It is so finely printed that it is barely visible. I've never seen anything this poor on any other indie. I have a 4 month old printer full of ink. I went online to look at the pdf there and it was similarly barely visible. You can't read anything on it and the lines are so thin and slight it is hard to tell which piece is what.
Grainlines were 1 3/4 inches long and you get one per pattern piece. Remember, these are oversized pieces, just ridiculous.
Worst of all, and feel free to correct me, I could not get this pattern to line up. Turns out once I tried Landscape, everything lined up. I did not find this instruction anywhere, AAackkkk.
The instructions tell you to carefully match the marked edges of the collar and sew together, turn right side out, etc. There are no marks anywhere on this collar. The shapes of the collar are just a bit off from assymetrical so to make a mistake in placement which I did, was easy.....rip rip. The highly textured fabric surely added to the confusion, but beware.
Instructions #4 say to align the collar with the right edge of the frt bodice while the video says to align 3/8th of an inch back. oy,,,,,
When it comes to the neckline the directions are simply "Bind the neckline with bias tape." They provide you with a pattern piece to cut the bias for the neckline. I found it far too wide. I did my own thing with the width. You will see how their width works out on iteration #2 of this top.
The next issue I had with the pattern is the sequence. After the collar and binding are on, it has you install the sleeves, connect the bodices, do sleeve and bottom hems and then attach the button band. I would skip all that and go directly to Attaching the Buttonhole Placket. You will be dealing with much less bulk and it will be a lot easier getting the button holes in without wrestling all that fabric. Crazy instructions! I tried both methods with my two blouses and found method #2 easier, faster and a cleaner finish. Once the buttons and plackets are done, then return to the previous instructions in their order.
Whew, I'm exhausted. Let's talk the beautiful Fabric.
Fabric:
The saga continues! I like nothing on our windows, choosing instead to watch the lake, the seasons, and the amazing wildlife we see in our small, country property. Visits from bald eagles, tons of songbirds, bears, otters, so many water birds are always happening and a joy to watch. Hubs believes windows are like people and need to be dressed. I finally succumbed, after great insistence and went shopping with no esxcitement. I ran into Home Goods which I knew would have nothing for a simple kitchen valance and looked at the shower curtains. There it was! A snow white Cynthia Rowley plain white shower curtain, beautiful fabric, lots of beautiful fabric. The valance would take 18 inches and the leftover, a 72x78 inch piece of 100% double gauze with this incredible, crunchy looking popcorn texture an was mine! Yahoo! The button bands, binding and hem facings would be 100% cotton organdy I purchased from my Amish friend in NY. The double gauze was very compliant and the organdy, despite washing was a bit stiff but we managed. I loved the contrast.
Construction:
Despite the quality of the instructions, this design was quite simple to construct. The collar was brilliant, being tucked into the shoulder seams and front neckline, no futzing at all. I chose to do Hong Kong seam everywhere but the armscye which was stitched and serged. The hems were all faced with the organdy.
The sleeves on this top are magnificent and what really sold me on the design.
They are extremely dropped, wide and are then pulled up with a tab. If you follow Sara's instructions for stitching the tab and buttonhole placement you will find that it sort of bends out the top of the tab. I didn't like that. On my second top I did my thing and serged the end of the tab and folded it under once and then moved the buttonhole up higher. My trusty Kenmore was able to handle any bulk beautifully. Your inside sleeve and hems will show with this top.
Because the size is so large and just so near square I ended up placing the side seam on the fold and cut a seam on the center back, my fault totally. The piece being so large and personally being gifted with a long thin neck, I was comfortable putting a seam allowance up center back. I decided to add the pleat as designed but do it in the organdy. I stitched the edges of the the pleat on the inside of the garment to keep it laying nicely and it does. I love this. A pleat out of the popcorn gauze never would have worked. Here you can see me stretching out the side seams to get an idea of the beautiful back and size of this top. It closes and drapes down normally.
I will add that if you try this pattern: Topstitch both sides of the button plackets. It will look more professional. Instruction #26 say to press the band installation seam toward the bodice (?) and "understitch/topstitch." Whenever I have done a button band it has enclosed seams that were pressed toward the band. The inside seam of the band was a bit wider and caught in the topstitching or understitching on top. I don't see how you can enclose the seam if the the seam allowance is pressed toward the bodice and why would you anyway? Is this a translation issue? I don't know but confusing to a beginner for sure. Also, cut the longer shape and adjust the hem at the end to get the length you want . As far as the slits, they are very short, even on the longer version which is my second iteration. I don't think I will use them next time.
In Conclusion:
In the end, I absolutely love this blouse. I think it is gorgeous. I love the design and the fabric. It was a journey, but isn't it always? Now, my opinion is one formed from a lot of experience which means a lot of expectation. That also includes a lot of hope. I want other sewists to succeed, to find beautiful designs that will fit all sizes from petite to Rubinesque beauties. Sewing Theory designs do that. However, let's not give them a sub par product when it comes to instruction. I do think perhaps some of the issue, some, is one of translation. But Sewing Therapy would do well to have some serious editing done by a far more experienced sewist, one who knows what it is like to be a newer or returning stitcher and needs a clearer path to achieving great results with beautiful designs. There are no photos anywhere in the instructions. That would help a lot. This design and others are innovative and beautiful and feminine. Don't dare refer me to the video which I watched numerous times. I paid for the PDF and in doing so expected clear and professional instruction upon recieving the PDF and its instructions. If only the video instructions were "good" that should have been stated up front but they were not.
My recommendation is to try this knowing what I have shown you here. I think you can end up with a beautiful, unique garment......................Happy Sewing
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