A simple button down shirt, right? Oh, no. This shirt has a lot more substance than meets the eye and is definitely worthy of discussion.
The pic above shows the inside of the collar band, made with a western themed cotton. Let's bullet this area:
* Appropriately themed fabric for the collar band, nothing obvious but still referencing Western wear.
* Two rows of topstitching on the neck edge of the collar band.
* The collar band is interfaced with grosgrain ribbon with it's edge exposed, all the better to show it vibrant contrast.
* A grosgrain ribbon for a loop to hang the shirt, ON THE INSIDE. Love that, instead of on the outside.
* Plaids and manufacturer's label centered nicely. You will see this was made in Viet Nam and beautifully so. I can tell you this garment did not have one single short thread left from cutting that I could find anywhere. Everything was trimmed tightly and stitched to perfection.
* Three eyelets embroidered on the collar stand to allow for ventilation, very cool, IMO.
Next on our journey is the inside of the upper chest area:
Each of the tiny buttons for the button down collar was backed with a tiny circle of thin felt to provide comfort for the wearer.
On the outside of the back yoke the manufacturer has embroidered his logo over the pleat. He hasn't lost any opportunity to market his product on this shirt with embroidery as you will see. I think he took a lesson from Guess jeans!
Under each arm is a generous gusset, the better to lasso those cattle! Again, beautifully faux flat felled.
The little black thread wisp was already on my ironing board from another project, not this one! The gusset is stitched with two rows of machine stitching and then serged over with a four thread serge. You will notice that it makes matching difficult for the side seams but CF matches beautifully.
Check out the tower placket. It has double "towers" and a bar tack at the corner. It is also extra long. I am thinking to accomate work gloves, maybe. There is a metal button halfway up the placket, again with logo and two buttons on the cuffs. This way the cuff length can be adjusted for comfort by the wearer. On the outside of the opposite cuff is once again, another logo, just in case you forgot who made this great shirt.
Here you can see the beautiful stitching on the button placket and the pocket. There is a pencil pocket inside the shirt pocket, all beautifully logo'd and topstitched. I dream of topstitching and buttonholes like these. Sigh,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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I hope you've enjoyed this tour of my friend's shirt. I found it pretty impressive and picked up some great details to try. I will leave you with a pic of my beautiful, 8 foot tall Korean Lilac who just couldn't bloom enough! 5 years ago when we bought this house it was a scraggly dieing bunch of a couple of sticks which the owner suggested we pull out. But gardeners have faith and hope and give love. Look at her now!......Happy Sewing,,,Bunny
Nice details on the shirt! What's the purpose of the grosgrain ribbon on the collar band - stretch prevention? Fabric wear-through prevention? Just for pretty? Wouldn't it be scratchy on the neck, or is there a softer version than what I'm familiar with (sold in big box stores)?
ReplyDeleteI think it serves all that you mention as well as serves as an interfacing or stay on that bias collar edge. I don't think that tiny of an edge would be that scratchy, particularly on the sun hardened neck of those who enjoy that very hot Western sun and the high altitudes up there. I just came back from a vacation and spent time in the mountains of Arizona. I got a tan just walking from the car to the restaurants! You can get rayon grosgrain that is softer than the poly most of us have. I recently saw it online but can't remember where, unfortunately. I'd like to try it. Thanks for your comments, Gail.
DeleteHi, This is where I order my rayon Petersham https://thesewingplace.com/notions/petersham-ribbon/
DeleteCheers!
I love all the details you shared about this shirt, thank you very much! I wonder who devised these ideas. It would be valuable and fun to have a book devoted to such extraordinary details.
ReplyDeleteI agree. It really is a basic button down, not a particularly Western style shirt, at least the way I think of them. The deets are pretty amazing. I have to try those double tower plackets and the extra buttoned cuffs.
DeleteThank you for sharing that beautiful shirt. I had a friend ask me to copy a favorite twill work shirt that had similar details. His included a pleated gusset in the side backs and two piece sleeves with three pleats at the elbows. It allowed him to move his arms and shoulders without the whole shirt pulling up. It’s refreshing to see well made clothing.
ReplyDeleteI do a fair amount of alterations. I can honestly say I don't often see this quality. I love it when the older Yankee ladies around here bring me their 40 year old all wool winter coats for an alteration, usually for sloping shoulders. You get to see the insides and they can be pretty amazing, not like anything off the rack I see very often. Thanks for your comment, anon.
DeleteThank you for the tour! I love seeing all these details especially the gusset under the arm and vents on the collar. Those were new to me. Love to see the plaid match up. Makes my heart sing. When I was making plaid shirts for my dad years and years ago I did that as it made him smile. Learned alot about matching plaids from making those shirts. I really appreciate your blogs. Jean
ReplyDeleteGreat post! How do you think the company made that intriguing neckband? I’m trying to figure out the order of construction.
ReplyDeleteMy husband has several shirts with the grossgrain trim at the neckline. Everytime I iron the shirt (I'm pretty sure it is Orvis), I wonder how it was constructed. I didn't think of the ribbon being used as an interfacing as the ribbons I have are not as wide. Unfortunately the shirt is still in wearable condition otherwise I would pull it apart. Please consider posting a tut on how to add the ribbon!
ReplyDelete