I have a not normal double review for you today, two tops from two different patterns. They come along with a big lesson, a rather feminine one, learned rather late in this game of life and sewing that is mine. Many of you may know that I do alterations and repairs for others. I enjoy, particularly the challenge of repairs and the new friends I have made along the way. I have had the great experience of always working with lovely people on both sides of the gender fence, all with interesting challenges presented. I have fixed numerous "favorite" garments for men that are in total disrepair but are their favorites and will pay any price to keep them back in service. You talk about happy, appreciative customers! They have presented my with their prize backpacks, work bags, work gloves, 20 year old jeans , puffers snagged by branches while climbing down from their hunting blinds and more. I've helped lots of beautiful, all, princesses, get ready for their first and maybe only prom and formal of their lives, negotiating opinions between mom and daughter that luckily always turned out well. Some of these gowns are amazing in their construction and investment but we always made it work to everyone's satisfaction. Among all of this I have to say my favorites are the Moms of Brides and Grooms. They are of a certain age and almost too comfortable with their bodies. I try to get them to see their beauty and they are going to be gorgeous on this special night of their child's marriage or even their own. They've full accepted their bodies as they now are and usually have lovely gowns but they don't quite fit. They can be showing too much decolletage, need pulling up straps, hemming and such. They know this and unlike Mrs. Mole, I think because I get my work thru friends and don't advertise at all, I haven't had any problem customers yet, expecting me to make them into something ridiculous. I love them to pieces. I'm pretty much in their same league. Most have something in common. They like to be comfortable and years of that philosophy presents them in a gorgeous gown with a bra they should only sleep in. I explain to them tactfully and kindly the importance of making the dress work and send most to a professional bra fitter that I work with. She works miracles with them and every single MOB and MOG has thanked me profusely. They ALL have told me they had been wearing the wrong size bra and were amazed at what was the correct bra and thank you, Bunny, so much.You are welcome.
Guess what? I haven't practiced what I have preached. Father in Heaven, forgive me. But lately it became more evident I needed "Zoe's" help as much as anyone my age who has gone through physical changes. About five years ago I was put on medication causing a pronounced weight loss that I have to today and because I will continue on this med which helps me tremendously, I won't gain it back. Some very friendly hormones disappeared and I have regular visits from Auntie Gravity. I think you get what I am saying, here. I needed to take my own advice and yesterday I did. The past three garments I have made had issues I just could not make work with all my usual tricks and then some. It hit me that I needed to visit Zoe. I've been all over measuring and buying bras . I thought I was in the right ones but really wasn't . Something was wrong with each bra I bought. I have this very narrow torso and boobage attached. I just knew in my gut she would get it right and she did.
First to the garments.
This is the Mersis Dress from Pattern Fantastique. I made the smallest size and made it smaller. Diagonal folds insisted on hanging from the bottom of the V neck. It has unusual large gussets under the arms and tons of bodice ease. I tried everything from shoulder pads to taking in you name it. This is the best I could pull off. A week or two later I woke up with the reason, I thought. The weight of the very full sleeves and narrow shoulders were just pulling it all down my now newly sloping shoulders and it was slip sliding away. The answer:
A Tie.
Great post Bunny! Like you my boobage has shifted down like many of my friends in our senior community. A good fitting bra is worth its weight in gold and definitely makes our clothes hang properly. As a former professional sewist I encourage all my friends to get the "right" bra. Thanks from Karen in Austin
ReplyDeleteThanks, Karen. Laurina even commented, unsolicited, about how much better my top fit with my new bra. I tried on about 20, with and without the top. The right bra felt effortless and really showed a difference.
DeleteHi Bunny. A very interesting and informative post. Such a difference. I’m in dire need of a Zoe but don’t live in the USA. B
ReplyDeleteBusinesses like this do much for those who are dealing with mastectomies and augmentations. Perhaps if you search along those veins you might find something closer by or can ask some friends who have dealt with such issues what and who was suggested to them. It is worth searching out.
DeleteThe differences are subtle but dramatic. Thanks for the reminder to refresh, renew and refit!
ReplyDeleteWhen you sew, you notice these subtleties . My measurement was interesting! I know there are differences between bra measuring and measuring for patterns and us sewists like to think we know our bodies but dealing with a professional in these matters taught me a lot.
DeleteI wish I lived close enough to visit Zoe. I was once measured by a so-called bra fitter in a department store. She measured me over my thick sweater, and the tape was loose to boot. No way in Hades did I take a band size 8" larger than what I was wearing, and a cup size 3 sizes smaller!! Yet, when I measure myself (no top on and snug tape measure) and follow the sizing "rules", what I come up with don't seem to be right either. I'm not sure if it's my measurements, or the bra styles. How does one go about finding a *real* bra fitter when there are no stores that specialize in bras anywhere near? Ordering on-line could get horrendously expensive if they can't be returned.
ReplyDeleteAwesome that you figured out a fix for your tops, that in the end is a fairly easy solution. Or at least doesn't involve reworking your standard pattern alterations.
The staff in this store are professionals, with certifications and education behind them. They have three locations around New England which you can find if click on the link. I will do a bit more research and see if there is some national certification or list offering these services. As far as the sizing. I was measured by Laurina and told this would be tweaked. The sizing can be the same but can vary due to bone structure, the actual type bra, and other factors. I measured a 30 double D but with my chosen bra, which feel like a cloud and does what I want I ended up with a 32 C. I tried on various sizes and models. It takes time. My 30DD on a 70 plus year old petite is not the same as a 30DD on a tall 20 year old. It really is a matter of taking time with someone who can look at you and see what is going on and trying on tons until you get there. My bra has no underwires although I tried many that did.
DeleteYes to every word of this, Bunny! I can't believe how many women I see in nice clothes but ineffective bras. (My latest trick personally is that everything gets replaced on Mother's Day! No matter what.) If a woman can't get to Zoe's or the like, there are an number of companies that now offer virtual bra fitting via Zoom, then they send you several options and have another consultation where they can see you in them. Works well.
ReplyDeleteI also think a dolman sleeve is challenging and I do not wear them even though not large-busted. In those you have to lift breasts up regardless of size to deal with that wide horizontal front.
Your blog is always a wealth of information. I need Zoe badly but I live across the country. And my problem, very large rib cage (with extra padding!) has made finding a bra that fits the circumference even harder. I really need to learn make my own. But I need to know what a good fit is first I think. Thank you again for going the extra mile and continuing to blog. Jean
ReplyDelete