Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Sheer Hem Technique
I thought I would share the hem/edge technique I will use on my blouse, BWOF #122-3,6-09, that you saw in the last post. After some fiddling with my last sheer hem, I came up with what was for me an original edge treatment but have since seen it referred to in BWOF 6/09. Their directions are cursory so here are mine in a little more detail. It is quite simple.
I start with the starch you see above. I love this starch. It is REAL starch. You mix 1 part starch to 4 parts water for a heavy treatment. That is what I generally use. I put it in my spray bottle labeled so no one else can scoot that bottle away to put bug spray or some other sort of poison in it. Spray your hem area and iron it dry. Do a test run, particularly if you are using silks. I have had very good luck with this starch. I spray, let it sit for a full minute, then iron dry. The body can be removed with a wash and you will also see on some fabrics it just flakes off.
Next I fold over to the wrong side and iron a 5/8 inch seam allowance until dry. This gets quite stiff which is what you want. Now to the machine to stitch.
Set the machine at a basic zigzag with a 2.0 width and a .7 length. Use a fine weight embroidery thread and a size 8 universal needle. You can find this at all the chains as well as on line. I have the fine thread in the bobbin as well as on top. With the fold of the edge a hair to the right and the right side up, start stitching. If you are positioned correctly the edge will roll as it is stitched. After stitching take your scissors and trim back the excess seam allowance to the zigzagged edge. Done! I have put this on my fingers so you can get an idea of the scale of this edge treatment. It is finer than my serger's rolled hem and I didn't have to change the plate in the serger either. Mine is an oldy and I detest doing that. Adjusting the machine is much quicker and easier.
I will be using this edge on my sheer blouse but first I will make a muslin....bunny