Friday, November 23, 2012

What a difference a day makes! Vogue 8676 Muslin

DH's muslin shots are getting better but there is still a big learning curve. Anyhoo, here's my breakdown so far on the muslin. I cut this with no facings and to the  center front front edge.  I checked and rechecked  and I used the neckline measurements and collar measurements correctly despite changing from a lapped seam to a conventional seam.

  • A definite FBA is needed.
  • This jacket does not have room for the thinsulate lining  IMO and I may cut a larger size. I am thinking of putting the quilted lining together and then making the jacket after to fit it properly. I will cut large seam allowances to compensate. 
  • The neckline is nothing like the pattern OR pictures I have seen on Pattern  Review of completed jackets. Here's what I think is happening and feel free to give me your two cents. Being five feet tall necklines always fall way too low for me despite taking out between the bust apex and the shoulders. I am thinking raising the front neckline to bring it in closer to my actual neck. What do you think?

This back pic shows the major issues.

  • The armscyes feel very tight and high despite my lowering them a half inch already. Cut them down more? 
  • Wicked sloping shouldes.
  • The biceps are snug despite my adding a bit there. I can add to the armscye by lowering it and then widen the  sleeve seam allowance to fit in more bicep.
  • The jacket is hanging off the shoulders. I also think it needs to be raised  a bit where it meets the sleeve. I would like to use a small shoulder pad and this would also need to be accomodated.
  • Again, the neckline - too far away from my long skinny  neck in the back as well. I think I will redraw the whole thing to bring it in closer. 
Here you can really see the needed FBA as the front hem is being pulled up by my boobs. You can see also the low profile of the neckline, not like the pattern at all. There's that tight underarm again.

I think I will just cut a larger pattern, make the narrow shoulder adjustment, deal with the armholes, oy.......I will persist! This has to accomodate the quilted  thinsulate interlining. Go up one size? two sizes? I am thinking two.

Yup. this is my flannel jammies, no makeup, post migraine self.  I get them maybe 2-3 times a year and today was the day. Thankfully, it lifted after an afternoon  sleeping and down to the cave I went.

Any input is greatly appreciated. I have contacted Banksville Fabrics and they are sending me swatches for the lining. I am leaning toward an acid green or royal blue silk charmeuse. Can't wait to see what they come up with....Bunny
 

13 comments:

  1. Sorry about the migraine, those are the worst! When my vision goes wonky, I know what's coming, and have figured out how to lighten the attack. Ugh!
    I think your plan is right on the money. The pulling up of the center front hem and the tightness in the back of the armpits are the most obvious, and it looks like you may need to drop the arm scye another 1". Good luck, but I'm sure it will look fantastic when all is said and done!

    ReplyDelete
  2. the collar is oddly huge. Cut the neck and collar in a smaller size? I always have a problem with binding sleeves and one, the biceps have to be big enough, which you already know. But, it wasn't the armhole that was too small, it was fine until I put in the sleeve. I needed more room at the front cap and a flattened back cap, which it looks like you need. Did you clip the curve of the sleeve? It looks like its really pulling at the back. I just finished fitting a self drafted sleeve with Kenneth King and we cut the armscye and sleeve cap with 1"sas and he pin fitted it in place marking the new seamline which he transferred to the pattern.
    I think that with the fba one size larger is probably enough. I have one question. Are you planning on washing this because I thought that thinsulate is not drycleanable.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi, Nancy! This is cut in a size six from the waist up, the smallest size. I trimmed the lower armscye to one eight inch and will clip to the stitching and see what happens.

      Yes, I would like this washable. The velveteen washed beautifully. Thanks for letting me know the thinsulate wasn't drycleanable, important information.

      Delete
  3. Yes, the shoulders are too wide and you could use a shoulder pad. I also think that there is too much ease in the sleeve cap.

    ReplyDelete
  4. I would do the sloping shoulder before you drop the armscye as that may take care of some of the tightness. I especially agree with redrawing the neckline and making the collar fit a bit closer.

    I use to get migraines quite frequently so I know the pain. Thankfully mine have eased quite a bit. A dark room and sleep use to help with mine also.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Luckily, they are a rare happening for me now. In earlier years they were much more frequent. Another great side effect of aging!

      Delete
  5. Phew! That is a log of alterations, but I do think you are right.

    ReplyDelete
  6. As another woman with a skinny neck, I agree with you to re-draft the neckline smaller. I usually start with the back to ensure that the correct lengths are present for center back waist, center back to neckline and center back to tip of shoulder. I did a post about fitting the the back.
    Then it's just a matter of getting the correct shoulder seam length and the slope. I find that a well-fitted shoulder does not necessarily need a shoulder pad. Add it if you want it, not to address any fit issues. For me, the front always goes easier after the back is fixed. Oh, and I'd remove the sleeve while fixing the bodice and then work on the sleeve. It does seem to have too much ease in the sleeve cap. For what it's worth, I share your fitting pain. I need to make a lot of adjustments, too. But when it's done, you will do an exquisite job of sewing it up.
    Thinsulate in that jacket is brilliant!!

    ReplyDelete
  7. Looking at the side view, it looks like the sleeve is trying to rotate to the back. Definitely FBA and sloping shoulder adjustment. When you took out between bust and shoulder, did you take it out below the neckline? I think that would lower the neckline. If possible, I would take it out hire up. That should pull the neckline up. The large folds in the back can be just the sloping shoulder or it looks like a little more length at the fold may be needed in the back. My .02 cents worth.

    ReplyDelete
  8. That pattern is obviously badly drafted. I know you can make it happen though. Laying a well fitting jacket pattern over this one would give you a good idea exactly what adjustments to make.

    ReplyDelete
  9. I have learned a lot by reading through these helpful comments! I have found fitting much easier since acquiring a pinnable dress form that is padded to my dimensions (Fabulous Fit). I'm fortunate that although I am tall, most of my extra length is in the legs, so a size 10 dress form (with the pole adjusted to 5'9")works well for me. You are so very petite! I don't know if dress forms come in petite proportions, and I suspect the value of the form for fitting would be lost if you didn't have a close double of your own shape. I also have a personal shoulder template: I stood against a wall, with tracing paper behind me. A friend carefully took a pencil and traced my shoulders. When I am making something new, I cut out the pattern tissue, and pin front and back to my dress form. I can see quickly if and where I need to alter for my square shoulders. I lay my template underneath the pattern tissue to guide the alteration.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. These are all wonderful suggestions. Thank you everyone. I am ready for round two!

      Delete

Engaging commentary: