The Deets on Simplicity 2153

Love this jacket!  Isn't it just perfect for a slightly cool Adirondack fall day? Here's all the deets:

Pattern:  Simplicity 2153, a basic anorak with collar and sleeve variations.I found the final results pleasing but it took a couple of muslins to get the fit right. The sleeves fit the armhole perfectly both before and after my alterations so the draft is essentially there. But the armscye area was very weird looking and until I followed my gut (you'd think I'd learn to do that right off at this point) and scooped out the front of the sleeve it just did not work. This pattern was petited, the shoulders narrowed, the sleeves shortened a lot and it had a small FBA to elminate some wrinkles. I didn't do my normal FBA as I felt the 40 /2 inches of bust was enough. The small FBA definitely helped. I also took in the side seam from the armpit to the waist a full inch on each side. So I guess that removed some of that ease. Lots of alterations but in the end I think I got it. It is a jacket and therefore will have ease and I think it is fine at this point. Just watch out for that armscye area if you make this.

I did not follow the sequence of construction in the pattern. The techniques I used required things to be done differently and needed some head time before moving from one process to the next. I did not use the epaulettes in the pattern as I thought that was too much and wanted the crinkle to be the star.

Fabric: The fashion fabric is a 100% poly crinkle. It was washed and dried before using and came out of the dryer with all wrinkles and crinkles in tact. Be careful with an iron as that can remove the wrinkles but they came back with a bit of water. The fabric is a cross woven with weft a copper-ish color and the warp a light turquoise blue. It has beautiful selvedges which I kept. When two colors are cross woven like that you get an irridescence to the fabric which is lovely. You will often see silk dupioni like this. I found this fabric in the clearance section at Joann's and got it for 2.50 a yard. I had been eying it a long time but didn't know what to make till I decided after trying on a six hundred dollar jacket in Lake Placid that a similar jacket would be just the ticket.

The lining is 100% cotton batik. It is fine and tightly woven and is easy to slip on and off over clothes. It made a great lining. It was the part of the 4 yard piece meant for Marcy Tilton's mullet dress that I decided I didn't want to make friends with.  Adhering to my oft repeated philosophy of "Just Cut It", I did, and am glad. It worked with the crinkle really well and was a delight to sew. Lets just say that was six times the cost of the crinkle.

Construction: This jacket is totally enclosed and finished on the inside. This happened by using a technique called "flat lining" which you can read about here as well as in tutes in the right sidebar. Sometimes when we don't use a technique for a while we forget how great it can be. This was just that sort of situtation. My next project will be flat lined as well. It just provides such a lovely finish.

 

The yoke was constructed "burrito" style which you can see here. If you've ever made a pillowcase you have probably used this method. I added a faux leather label to the facing which I painted with my initials and date, gold sharpie paint marker, not a regular marker. I love their "paint" markers. 

The sleeves used a Nancy Zieman technique which also totally finished them off and you can learn about that in the link. It is really easy. Then armscye ends up being bound with bias and nicely finished, so not a raw edge in sight on this project!

One of the fun things to do was decide how to deal with the cord going through the neckline and the waist. Did I even want to use cord? Or did I want to finger knit some sort of fiber or even use a ribbon? I found just the right color cord right when I was about to give up on the idea. Walmart to the rescue. They also had the bronze colored grommets which I couldn't find at JA's. I forget where I got the beads I used but they are cheapy "Pandora" knockoffs that I've seen in numerous craft departments. They worked great. I soaked the cord with  Fray check for about an inch and a half, put the bead on, tied the knot on the wet area and when dry cut the cord. This cord frays like an old sweater hole so be aware.

There was a lot of topstitching on this project. For the entire project I used a new size 12 Microtex needle, my go to. It worked just fine. The zip is a separating jacket zipper from Coats. I looked into ordering but felt the color of this worked perfectly. The facing is interfaced and you can see that it almost  removed the crinkle from the fabric but that was fine for the inside. Here you can see what the jacket looks like zipped up.

Well, I have worn this once already, to town to do my shopping. It feels wonderful, the way any well fitting and constructed garment does. There is just no comparison in  retail I can afford but it sure was fun trying on that six hundred dollar version! I highly recommend this pattern. Get past the arm fit and you have a winner. I am already thinking of making a denim or twill version for spring. As always, more sewing to come!.....Bunny