Vogue 1109, Sandra Betzina Knit Top
I had myself all dolled up and in my new nautical garb and could not get my remote to work on my camera. Since my devastatingly handsome photographer was not available today, you get the dress form version. Hope this doesn't sound weird but it looks better on a live human than a stiff dress form. Now that all the disclaimers have been filed, here is the good stuff.
Vogue 1109, a Sandra Betzina Today's Fit pattern. It is described as a multi pieced pullover top with pleated sleeves and sleeve bands. The pattern shows it using a stripe or color blocked. I think fabricating this in anything else would be sort of pointless. It is all about playing with those pieces here.
The pattern fits well. I started with a C at the top and moved out to a D as I got to the hips. I found this pattern took me quite a bit of time, at least 8 hours. Part of that was dealing with an ancient machine, no IDT on the machine, and not the greatest zigzag options either. A lot of care needs to be paid to the notches and other marks. I found missing notches and missing directions. Odd, that no one else noticed this on PR.
Fabric: This was listed as a poly/lycra knit. It is from the clearance area in Joann's in Middleton, Mass. I tell you they had quite the knit selection in this store. It's a biggie. It is very stretchy, four way, which the pattern recommends. I did find this much like sewing charmeuse, being very slippery and needing a lot of control. I know the IDT on my Pfaff would have helped a lot here. I used the Crayola markers and washed the top in the sink quickly to remove them before hemming. Worked like a charm.
Construction: This pattern requires care in matching corners and seams. I would not sew any seam to the end, ending instead 5/8 inch from the edge. This will make match all those corners together easier. I did do the following fit adjustments before starting:
- Removed a half inch across the upper bodice in back and front between shoulder and chest.
- Added a seam to the center back to facilitate a swayback adjustment.
- For the swayback adjustment I cut a line across the back bodice at the cb waist, leaving it hinged at the side. I then overlapped this to take out an inch at CB going out to nothing at the side seam.
- On the sleeves I folded out a 1/2 inch across the cap to match what was taken out of the bodice. I am very short and the sleeves ended right where they should have. If you have long arms you may want to lengthen the sleeve.
- I extended from size C to size D starting at 2 inches below the armhole, Betzina's suggestion.
And now to answer some questions from yesterday's post:
"I also sew with a Pfaff machine, love the built-in integrated feed. Do you ever have issues with your thread shredding while embroidering using the Pfaff?"
Susan, I also am crazy fro the intergrated feed, or IDT. I do not have an embroidery machine. Not sure I ever will as I have never quite felt the need. I enjoy handwork so much so that is how I do my embellishments.
"When you are matching stripe or plaid do you ever slip baste?"
I usually do but not being a very experienced knit sewist, I was afraid I might snag the fabric. So instead I chose to use silk pins. They are very fine and sharp. That worked great.
Not sure what my next project will be . It may be another top, a simple one or some white pants, or a muslin for my next Chanel. I am also on the prow for some handwork as well. I am trying to think of how to incorporate some handwork into my first attempt at a frame bag. The frame bag should be fun and you will all be learning right along with me. Frame bags are a new experience for me. I just have to find the right glue that is necessary..............Bunny