Here you see the bodice fronts taped to prevent stretching. The lace bodices are underlined with the poly and stitched all around. A poly chiffon selvedge was used to tape the bias edge of the neckline. It was cut 1/4 inch shorter than the actual pattern and the edge distributed along its length. This helps pull in the neckline to the body. If you look close you can see how the selvedge doesn't lay flat but has the fabric underneath bubbling slightly.
After I stitched the underlining to the lace and before taping, each piece was "resquared" checking for any distortion that happened in the stitching, and it did! Once we were resquared on all the bodice pieces it was sew time.
One thing I really like about this pattern, Simp 2217, is the shape built into the back bodice. If you look at the pattern piece you can see the grainline lined up with the lines on the cutting mat. Then look at the CB edge and see the curve. The curve is further accentuated once the dart is sewn and you can see how it shapes in even more. Nice little detail.
I should finish the bodice today. I have veered from the pattern in that there will be no facings. I have instead chosen to use a bias finish to the edge.
Another interesting thing about this pattern is that it has you construct the entire front and the entire back, skirts included, separately. Then there is a trial fit to adjust side seams and shoulders.I'm not doing that. The bodice will be completed with all seams sewn and then the full skirt and lining connected. This gets tricky with the zipper. You want that skirt to float freely around the zip and I am thinking of how to work that out. I am pretty sure the zip will be hand picked, not the invisible zip that was my initial choice. If I can find the right beads I may even put a bead on the zipper. Hopefully this will all be done tomorrow, or Monday the latest. Too many other things piling up around here....Bunny
After I stitched the underlining to the lace and before taping, each piece was "resquared" checking for any distortion that happened in the stitching, and it did! Once we were resquared on all the bodice pieces it was sew time.
One thing I really like about this pattern, Simp 2217, is the shape built into the back bodice. If you look at the pattern piece you can see the grainline lined up with the lines on the cutting mat. Then look at the CB edge and see the curve. The curve is further accentuated once the dart is sewn and you can see how it shapes in even more. Nice little detail.
I should finish the bodice today. I have veered from the pattern in that there will be no facings. I have instead chosen to use a bias finish to the edge.
Another interesting thing about this pattern is that it has you construct the entire front and the entire back, skirts included, separately. Then there is a trial fit to adjust side seams and shoulders.I'm not doing that. The bodice will be completed with all seams sewn and then the full skirt and lining connected. This gets tricky with the zipper. You want that skirt to float freely around the zip and I am thinking of how to work that out. I am pretty sure the zip will be hand picked, not the invisible zip that was my initial choice. If I can find the right beads I may even put a bead on the zipper. Hopefully this will all be done tomorrow, or Monday the latest. Too many other things piling up around here....Bunny
This is why your garment will look amazing... your attention to details!
ReplyDeleteBunny, this is going to be so pretty. Thank you for sharing your thoughts as you work through a design and project. It helps me see where I need to be more focused. I am going to be underlining a tee and it helps to see what you do with a more luxe fabric.
ReplyDeleteI too thank you for taking the time to show exactly what you're doing.
ReplyDeleteI can see this is going to be another good series of posts, Bunny. I couldn't wait to check in with you today. Hmm...chiffon selvedge used for taping. Again, I've learned something new. You can bet that from now on I'll think twice before I throw any selvedges away!
ReplyDeleteKathy
Lovely!!!!
ReplyDeleteI should be shopping, cleaning, decorating, doing laundry, etc., etc., and here I am, READING YOUR BLOG!!!!! love the CJ AM jacket as well!!! Thanks for all the hints, tips, etc., RE: Working with Faux leather also!!
Designdreamer
I agree, we all appreciate your attention to details and taking the time to blog about them! You do beautiful work! When you hand pick a zipper, how close are the picks to each other and does fabric choice figure in the decision to pick or not to pick?
ReplyDeleteA hand picked zipper wouldn't ever be a first or second choice for me. That's what makes your work so fantastic. Your willingness to do whatever it takes to make it perfect. I'm so looking forward to the finished dress.
ReplyDelete