The Dolce & Gabana Jacket Completed

The final word: I like it a lot. It's comfy, fits really nicely, just skimming things, and I know I will get a lot of use from this when it gets a tad cooler. Here's the 411:


Fabric:  The boucle, I'm embarrassed to say, was from Joann's clearance and scored for 3.00 a yard. It's 60% cotton and 40 % acrylic. It was washed and dried in the machine twice and came out  beautifully so my usually fabric snobbery got put aside for this one. The lining, on the other hand, is a silk charmeuse print that ran about 20 dollars a yard and was from Thai silks. It is so yummy. If you  have made one of these jackets you know how luscious they feel to wear. This one is no different thanks to the lovely silk. The boucle is fused to a lightweight tricot and I will definitely do that again. A lot about this jacket is Chanel technique and a lot is sacrilegious. I cherry picked how I wanted to make this and since the sewing police were busy going after the big criminals, I got away with it.

Construction:  This is where it gets interesting and here are the highlights.

*    The boucle was block fused to nylon tricot fusible interfacing. Will definitely do that again. (Not Chanel).
*    Seams were traditional  5/8ths on the inside. The outside of the seam was embellished with bias silk strips  with one turned under edge and one raw edge. The edges were brushed to promote fraying The interior seams were not overcast down. For one, the fusible prevented the fabric from fraying so this technique was not needed to finish the seams. Also, the stitching required for the bias strips secured  both of the seams down. (Not Chanel)
*    The side fronts were cut on the bias, something not in the pattern. This was to eliminate pattern matching issues and add a bit of interest. 

*    The silk lining was machine quilted to the boucle (Chanel).

*    The lining, other than the armholes, was totally stitched together with tiny fell stitches all by hand. (Chanel)

*    The sleeves have the lining/fashion fabric stitched as one to the bodice lining/fashion fabric. (Not Chanel).

*    Sleeve seam allowances have a cording stitched along the cap and are bound with more charmeuse. (Not Chanel)

*    The collar was put on in a unique fashion to eliminate facings and come up with an edge to edge lining. While the collar technique is my own, sewing the lining edge to edge with the jacket is definitely Chanel.  Here you can see the wrong side of the collar and how it is triple zigzagged to the upper collar to keep it crisp and give it a roll. My post of two days ago has details of how that was achieved.(Chanel)

*    The buttonholes were machine stitched. They look rather large and are because a boucle covered button is not easy to get through a buttonhole. Additional length was added to the BH to facilitate. (Not Chanel)

 

*    Here you can see the boucle covered buttons. They have a tiny piece of charmeuse underneath to prevent the metal of the button from showing through. I made the first one without and it was definitely needed. Getting the boucle to stay in the button cover was not easy at all and an entire afternoon was spent making these six buttons. I eventually figured out that if I got the  fabric and button pushed into the little rubber thingy and then soaked the remaining boucle with fray bloc I could manipulate the fabric to stay inside the button and accept the cap. This was probably the most difficult part of the jacket. The Fray Bloc worked and they seem quite secure. (definitely not Chanel)

Pattern: I love the way this jacket fits. It has gone into TNT status and is now waiting to be made up again. My next vision is in leather with lots of zippers. Hey, stop rolling those eyes! 

The pattern, Simplicity 2284, I HIGHLY recommend. There is a really nice shape to the two piece sleeve. The side seam sits back from where a side seam would be giving the impression of an under arm panel and helping with the fit. This patterns HAS CUP SIZES. I think the bust fit is beautiful on this pattern and I did nothing but "petite" it by shortening the bodice a bit, something I always do. If you are planning on a similar jacket, just know that the pattern meets at center front. I added an extension and collar to make it look like my original inspiration from Dolce Y Gabana. Originally I remarked how bubbly the bias trim looked on the original. Well, its not easy getting it to be flat, let me tell you. But I think I scored a little higher than the original on that one. I think only a wet baby's bum is more slippery than bias strips of silk charmeuse.

It's time to move on to the next project. Some smocking for Sophie and some bag experimentation are in the offing. I will be pleating this afternoon. As far as the bag, it will utilize a very simple design and on the bag  the foil technique I have been aching to try. 

Just want to pass on a very big Thank You to all who follow and those that just drop by and visit as well. I so enjoy all your comments and appreciate every one of them and you as well. Thanks again for making blogging and sewing such and enjoyable endeavor for me. Its always nice to share with kindred spirits....Bunny