The Cobalt Bling bag continues.....

I had to figure out a way to do a decent zipper installation on Vogue 8823. I was not going to put a zipper across the top of a a totally completed and lined bag, after the fact. There had to be a better way. I thought about this for the past three days and there were quite a few options considered. This is the winner. The goal here was to install the zipper more easily and at an earlier point in the construction. I think I've got it. Because I am going against pattern directions, I want to document every step for you.

The first change made in the pattern:

The pattern has you turn under the edges of the Bottom piece, shown above. The scalloped edges will then be stitched to the middle painted section. Taking from my heirloom sewing experience I decided to do a "mock" Madeira Hem. I say "mock" because this is not heirloom sewing but the concept is similar to  Madeira Hems the way Martha Pullen teaches. What you do. instead of painstakingly  basting and turning under scalloped edges and hoping for a smooth look, is make a "lining". Cut a second piece of fabric exactly like the bottom band piece. Right sides together, stitch the edges in a half inch seam. Clip inner points and grade and notch the edges. You can see here on the second edge I used my pinkers which did a great job.   Now turn this right side out and go to the ironing board.

Iron the scalloped edges doing a tiny "favor" to the wrong side, like you would on a neckline. You can see here what a much cleaner finish the edge has as opposed to turning and basting. It's easier and quicker too! Now this has to be attached to the middle painted section.

Next is to mark the half inch seam allowance on the middle section of the bag. It also has the scalloped shape.

Now Wonder Tape, a double stick adhesive tape,  is placed in the seam allowance. The paper is pulled off and the bottom leather section can now be placed on the marked line. Press it down with your fingers and head to the machine. No pins! They are not a friend to faux leather.

All placed and ready for topstitching! I put on the edge stitching foot and did a line 6 clicks in from the edge, about an eighth of an inch. Then I lined the blade of the edge stitching foot on top of the just done stitching and stitched again. Here are the results:

Doin' the Happy Dance!

Next this  lower section will be interfaced with fusible fleece. Because ironing can be unpredictable with faux leathers, I am trying to do as little as possible. The fusible fleece will be attached to a piece of muslin that will be an "interlining" to the bag. The same will happen on the top section. Fingers crossed. There is more finagling to do. ....Bunny


  1. This is going to be a beautiful bag, Bunny. That is a good tip working with a shaped edge - very professional finish.

    I know it takes a lot of time to do these blog entries, but I really appreciate the information you provide. I didn't realize what was available for fabric stenciling, but I now have a good project to do with my granddaughter this summer. Thanks, Bunny!

    1. Thanks, BaMa. Those Tim Holtz stencils are really cool and I hope to pick up a couple more that have intrigued me. They certainly are unique. There is a "lace" one that is awesome.

  2. Great approach to the scallops. I love the fresh white and blue with the leather too. It's fascinating!

    1. Thanks, Maryanne. I was surprised how much better it looked than the other options I was considering.

  3. Oh Bunny,
    Just gorgeous as always.
    I am sitting here, shortening a pair of wool trousers, still suffering angst over cutting the remaining pieces of my overblown patterned fabric and wishing you were here to guide me!!

    This bag is going to be stunning. How are you feeling these days? Recovered I hope.
    Thank you for all your hard work and inspiration that goes into your blog.xx

  4. I'm feeling good, Marysia, just have to be more careful than anything. I have a lemon sized lump that's shown up now that the swelling is down and have to be careful about that but otherwise its back to business as usual. Thanks for asking.
    Patterns can be such a challenge!

  5. This bag is going to be amazing. Thank you for documenting for us how you are going about constructing this bag.

  6. Oh the dark arts of bag making. I think it will be well worth the effort, and the wait to see it finished. As ever, such perfect execution.


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