Linen is my absolute favorite fabric to sew and probably to wear as well. Before I can explain my favorite method for its construction I really need to explain how best to wear linen. There are a few caveats.
To really get the most out of a linen garment both financially and stylistically it helps to follow a few tips.
* Linen needs to be washed at least three times before cutting and sewing. It can take bleach but really shouldn't ever need it. It thrives on the hottest of water.
* Linen garments, to be fully enjoyed, should be totally washable in the machine and dryable in your dryer. I have owned linen garments I've made, jackets, pants, tops and pajamas (wonderful, by the way) that I have worn for over ten years and they looked great till they could go no more, all washed and dried over and over.
* If you take your linens out of the machine just a hair shy of total dryness and if they are constructed the way I tell below, you should be able to shake them out, put them on a hanger and an wear them about 15 minutes later. I very rarely iron these clothes. They get a bubbly "boutique" look. You know, the bubbly casual look you pay for five times more than you should in the beach town boutiques on vakay. Just shake those bubbles out and rock on!
*To be able to have your garments take this sort of maintenance means starting with medium weight linens, nothing see thru. This weight rarely requires a lining for modesty.
* Grey linens are generally not the best quality fibers. Go for colors or whites and light beiges with Irish linens being worth the expense. Remember, you will wear these garments over and over for years and years. Cost per wear, remember?
*Because of their longevity, your design choices are best in simple classic looks. It is also better for the construction and maintenance as well.
*Garments with a fair amount of ease will work better for you over the years as weight fluctuates.
*Solids will give you the longest and most wear time. Just thinking about the investment side of good linen and how prints can be trendy.
After I finished my last two projects, I was sort of bumbling in the shadows of covid19 wondering what to do next. I decided to work on something I needed. I need sleeveless summer tops. I don't like knit tanks, just simple tops that pull over and are woven. I decided to draft my own. I really enjoyed that. I had some nice scraps of white medium weight linen that would be perfect. Unfortunately, it wasn't. I was missing about 1 inch of fabric to get in just one of the shoulder straps. I bumbled around some more and realized I had plenty of smaller pieces to make a yoke of sorts in the front bodice. It worked fine. I committed it all to permanent paper and now have a new top pattern for summer, one that I can use with or without the yoke. I like it.
The above photo shows you how I like to sew linen to get it to last me decades. I apologize for the all white photo and I did try to squeeze out as much contrast as I could. If you click it to another screen I think you will be able to see it better.
*I choose simple designs.
* I don't line any thing made with this type of linen and I very rarely use a facing. If I do use a facing it is stitched down on the edge and an intentional part of the design.
* EVERY seam is machine stitched, pressed as sewn, pressed to the side, and then serged together. The seam is then topstitched an 1/8th of an inch away from the original seam and then a 1/4 inch away from that topstitching, on top of the serging. It gives the look of a felled seam, is very strong and secure and it holds up to years of machine washing.
* The entire garment is clean finished within and without. On this top I used a lightweight cotton voile in a French fold bias finish for the armholes and neckline. On the side seams I carefully banged them where needed on cement with a hammer to reduce the bulk in the seam. I only needed to do one spot at the top of one side seam. Having all the edges enclosed and serged and topstitched makes for one tough garment.
As in all sewing, there are various ways to sew, treat and wear/enjoy linen. It is just so versatile, comfortable in the heat, classy (I hope), and just a delight to sew and wear. As you plan your summer wardrobe and as we dream of days when we can get out in the summer sun, think of investing in some good medium weight linen and making yourself some pieces with simple design lines. They will bring you years of comfort and joy. Covid #4 is a skirt, another original, not pattern.......................Bunny
It's so simple but beautiful! And the finishing is just awesome! I had never been much of a linen fan until I made a top for my mom. She lives in GA so heat and humidity. I tried it on after sewing and thought, mmmm, nice! And of course, it was a joy to sew (and press!)
ReplyDeleteI have 2 cuts of linen picked up late last year. Will definitely be sewing them this summer! :)
I hope you get to try this construction technique.
DeleteOh I love this top! If it was a commercial pattern, I'd be buying it right now. The yoke is perfect.
ReplyDeleteI've always said I do some of my best things when I am forced to work with what I have. I did not have enough fabric for the full bodice front so had to do some creative seaming. It actually as a slight curve which you can't pick up in the photo.
DeleteLOve this top. What is the pattern number please.
ReplyDeleteThere isn't any, my own design. It has a v neck in the back which I almost copied from a dress pattern, but instead made it a a fair amount higher and with a slight curve too.
DeleteThis is beautiful and thank you for all the linen tips. I would, as well, buy this if it was a commercial pattern. Your sewing is exquisite. Jean
ReplyDeleteThank you, Jean.
DeleteI love this too! I especially like yokes because they help me deal with my aging high round back and forward shoulders. Center front and back seams are useful for dealing with curvatures also. Ah, the aging figure (sigh)!
ReplyDeleteI was intrigued by your comment about careful banging on cement with a hammer. I have heard of hammering seams to flatten them, but I don't know how it works, and I've been afraid to try it. Could you give a more complete description, or point me in the direction of further reading on the subject?
Again, This is truly a graceful version of a simple garment we all need. I hope to be able to achieve something as classic.
Kay, it's a technique that comes in really handy when dealing with super thick hard bumps like on denim jeans seams or heavier linens. Find a clean spot of cement. I use my basement floor. Cover it with a clean piece of cloth, like muslin. Lay out your garment, wrong side up, so you can see the lumpy seam. Cover that with a piece of fabric, not too thick or thin. Get a hammer and give it a couple of good bangs. Check it and feel to see if it has thinned out. Darker colors may lighten somewhat. Bang a couple more times if needed. Only bang if your lump is covered with fabric. It should thin right out and when it does you are ready to stitch. Be careful not to overdo it. You could make some samples first to practice and see what you get. This is great for flattening areas that are lumpy and going to get topstitched or where seams meet for zippers on heavier fabrics. Just don't over do. A little goes a long way. Thank you for your lovely comments on the garment.
DeleteThank you for the directions. I will try it on a sample (I'm sure I have some UFOs I can practice on haha) before I try it on the precious, but it seems like a really good technique to have in the arsenal.
DeleteI bought some linen recently and I want to try your construction technique, looks great. Did you say to wash the fabric three times before cutting? I usually wash it, but just once. Thanks for the advise. Xx
ReplyDeleteTo get to a linen garment that does not require fuss and ironing, yes, start with washing three times. It also takes care of a lot of shrinkage.
DeleteJust want to add, that you will see garments in higher end catalogues and boutques being sold as "washed linen". They have been well washed in industrial machines before being cut.
DeleteThis post has some great information about sewing with linen, thank you!
ReplyDeleteYou're welcome, Patty.
DeleteYour tank top is lovely! I wish I knew where I read this - "If your linen is wrinkly, you haven't abused it enough. Drag it 10 miles on a gravel road and it will be great." Not an exact quote, but you get the sentiment. I wish I had need for cool summer garments, however it seems I live in sweatshirts year round due to air conditioning. And it seems a bit posh for grubbing about doing yard work...
ReplyDeleteThis is a beautiful top: inside and out!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the great construction directions.
One more thing: I have discovered that cutting linen pieces on the bias as much as possible makes for even less wrinkles. It is stiff enough that bias cutting will not give you the clingy silhouette that most bias garments have. BUT it absolutely refuses to crease when you sit, or under the pressure of a seat belt etc. Even if you only cut the front of a dress on the bias you will see a tremendous decrease in deep creases as you wear! And, your top is just lovely. Love the finishes.
ReplyDeleteBette, I found long ago that bias bodices just do not work for me, too much boob, too narrow torso. But your comment about the stiffness has me rethinking this possibility. I have some rust colored linen and I think I may take you up on this suggestion. You have me very curious and thank you so much.
DeleteWOW, what a great post, Bunny! As always, you give such clear construction tips. I'm so happy to hear your no iron technique including washing the linen 3 times before cutting. Karen
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for all this information! I have given linen the cold shoulder for years! Now I'm anxious to try it.
ReplyDeleteI remember when I restarted my career after the small children days, looking at very tailored and beautiful linen suits in the stores. It was the days of suit wearing daily for me. They were gorgeous but there was not way I could get through the first hour, never mind an entire day, with the hard creases that would set in into those types of garments. I used to think they were for standing at a podium for 45 minutes and doing a presentation and that was it AND you had to change into the outfit right before.
DeleteThis top is gorgeous. I too love linen and would love to make a top like this but I am a beginner and have difficulty with bias finished armholes and necklines. Can you please point me to a tutorial to help? I would love to be able to duplicate your impeccable work.
ReplyDeleteWell, I think you have given me a great idea for a blogpost. What I found for French double fold bindings on youtube was all in relation to quilting. Thank you for the suggestion. I love being home from work ( thinking positive here with covid ) and having the time for more in depth blogging. Thanks for your lovely comments.
DeleteSo timely. I was about to cut out a blouse from a gray linen I bought at JoAnn's. Back to the washer to wash the piece two more times! Why are the fibers in gray linen of a lesser quality? Love the yoke in your piece - I am looking for style variations for my basic top and you have given me a wonderful idea. You mentioned the seam is curved slightly - how much? And, any suggestions for where to buy good quality linen? Many thanks for another wonderful and detailed tutorial. Mary Jackson
ReplyDeleteBy gray, I don't mean the color gray. I am referring to a product that is a rather muddy gray and from the Eastern Bloc. It generally uses shorter fibers and just doesn't hold us as long as the better quality. Really nice linen has a low glow to it that will become pronounced when ironed. I like the slubs so don't consider that a quality factor but some do. The best linens are from Ireland and Belgium and cost a lot. I have used some Asian linens that were actually quite nice. I never really had a particular resource but this past year a drapery maker friend put me in touch with www.fabrics-store.com for linens. She told me other designers she knows are using them as well. I ordered several yards and am pleased with what I received. Their products can change and I ordered their signature linen. Their prices are very reasonable and I can only assume due to volume. I like that they sell by weight and have lots of various weights. One of the things I do when I buy linen is usually make a haul about every August or September. It can be found online or in stores on sale. I will buy a bunch and just let it sit in the stash ready to go. The products at Fabric Store are not Belgian linen but they are very nice and I have been happy wit the midweights I have purchaced.
DeleteThanks Bunny. I have not ordered from fabrics.store.com but will check it out once I feel comfortable having packages come into the house! I've washed my linen twice more and will cut it out tomorrow. Happy Sewing. Look forward to your posts!
DeleteI just want to add that the gray linen I described has a muddy gray color and appears more in a "raw" looking state. The name also comes from what we used to call "gray goods", the fabric before dyeing, back in my younger days. Other linens I've described in the color gray are totally fine. It's not a color thing, more a "gray goods" thing. Hopefully I'm clearer here.
DeleteThank you for a great post. I always enjoy reading what you have to say. When you wash your fabric, so you sew or serge the cut ends before washing? Also, do you use any kind of special detergent? Many thanks.
ReplyDeleteAnother question! I cut out a linen jacket which will be unlined so I used the technique on the seams - love the look. I've just sewed the sleeves and would appreciate your thoughts on whether I should use the same double stitching on the sleeve seam - if so, should the seam be sewn toward the sleeve or toward the jacket? I think the seam usually is pressed into the sleeve, but wonder if the stitching would work. Thanks, Mary Jackson
ReplyDelete