Collar is laid on a lumpy folded piece of ponte so looks curvy on one side. It's not.
Well, this is a heck of a lot better. The secret is the "Magic Collar" as taught by Nancy Zieman and found in her treasure of a book, " The Busy Woman's Sewing Book." This method was suggested by thoughtful reader and commentor, Carol in Denver in my last post, one in which I complain about making a decent collar point on an obtuse collar.
This is a method I remember trying back in the 80's but for some reason lost either my memory of how to use it or the reason why. Somehow it just slipped out and away from my sewing tool box. At Carol's suggestion and still dissatisfied with my obtuse collar results, I dug out my copy of this tiny sewing book.
You can see the size of this book compared to my small hand. It is chock with GREAT sewing information, like the Magic Collar. Her collar band technique is awesome as well, and much more. If you can get your hands on this little number, definitely buy it. It just got me out of the "obtuse" mess. I followed her directions, did nothing extra and it was downright easy.
I'm not going to infringe on copyright here and download the whole pages but you can see that you recut the pattern pieces for the collar, rearrange them and sew them back together in such a way that eliminates much of the bulk in the points. You only have a seam allowance on one side of the collar point, not both. The other side is simply folded fabric and elminating all that bulk makes a big difference. I did understitch the collar and it turned very easily right into the nice points you see above, no stress. Nancy, once again, has proven to be my patron saint of sewing, may she RIP.
These are the collar pieces I cut and I have them pinned together now in the pattern envelope. Since this is a basic camp shirt style, no doubt I will make it again. Next time all will be ready to go. Don't you just love to make second and third versions of patterns that you enjoy? Tomorrow it is off to see the Red Sox, work on a prom gown hem, than back to this shirt which I am making complicated in so many ways. Stay tuned...........my new sign off.............Sewing bOlder,,,,Bunny
ETA: Major mistake on my part and my humble apology for my ignorance. I discovered that I am humbly weak in geometry. The angles of this troublesome collar are not OBTUSE. They are ACUTE ANGLES. Acute angles are those that measure less than 90 degrees. Obtuse angles measure more than 90 degrees. I am sorry for any confusion this may have provided and for my mathmatical ignorance as well. My collar angles are definitely acute......a humble Bunny.
Threads #166 has an article by Louise Cutting - A Better Collar - that looks like it is the same, or very similar, technique. I have Nancy's book but it is downstairs so I can't compare the two techniques. Thought you might like to read another approach in case they aren't the same. Love your new sig file!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Mary. Great to hear from you. I have that Threads downstairs and will take a look as soon as I get a minute. My sister also told me that Linda Lee uses this method as well. Thanks for your input.
DeleteYour collar looks beautiful. And thanks for the link to Nancy's book. I've ordered it.
ReplyDeleteI think you will be really glad you made the purchase. Happy reading!
DeleteBunny, I have a book called Sewing Magic by Barbara Hellyer that shows the same technique. I seem to recall David Coffin wrote about her in his shirt book and I had read somewhere that she and Nancy Zieman corresponded. I have Nancy's book as well. Barbara's book is older so she may have originated the technique or at least been the first one to publish it.
ReplyDeleteIt is getting interesting chasing down the origin of this brilliant idea. I did find and read the Threads article by Louise Cutting and it is just like Zieman's. I will have to look for the Hellyer book at my library for starters. After this episode I don't think I can go back to the old way I've been doing collars and points. Thanks, everyone, for your opinion. I am anxious to see how the Montana collar comes out as one end of the collar is longer than the other and both are obtuse. I will defintely mock up that one.
DeleteJust as an FYI, I found the Nancy Zieman book (and several others) on Thriftbooks, and ordered them. These are used books in good condition, far less than buying new. I have had good results with purchasing this way.
ReplyDeleteI know this is picky, but that is not an obtuse angle. It's the opposite, acute.
ReplyDeleteYour education is greatly appreciated. Kind of figured that out myself and did a correction in the blog. I am always open to constructive critique and appreciate it. Thank you.
DeleteI'm so glad the method worked out for you! You did it proud, no matter who first devised the strategy.
ReplyDeleteAre you familiar with Bookfinder.com? It's a great source for out-of-print books. A good, used copy of The Busy Woman's Sewing Book is available for around $4... but Sewing Magic will set you back $80!
ReplyDeleteMy favorite collar hack!
ReplyDelete