Sewing Vloggers

Friday, May 12, 2023

So very much better!

 

Collar is laid on a lumpy folded piece of ponte  so looks curvy on one side. It's not. 

Well, this is a heck of a lot better. The secret is the "Magic Collar" as taught by Nancy Zieman and found in her treasure of a book, " The Busy Woman's Sewing Book." This method was suggested by thoughtful reader and commentor, Carol in Denver in my last post, one in which I complain about making a decent collar point on an obtuse collar. 

This is a method I remember trying back in the 80's but for some reason lost either my memory of how to use it or the reason why. Somehow it just slipped out and away from my sewing tool box. At Carol's suggestion and still dissatisfied with my obtuse collar results, I dug out my copy of this tiny sewing book. 


You can see the size of this book compared to my small hand. It is chock with GREAT sewing information, like the Magic Collar. Her collar band technique is awesome as well, and much more. If you can get your hands on this little number, definitely buy it. It just got me out of the "obtuse" mess. I followed her directions, did nothing extra and it was downright easy. 


I'm not going to infringe on copyright here and download the whole pages but you can see that you recut the pattern pieces for the collar, rearrange them and sew them back together in such a way that eliminates much of the bulk in the points. You only have a seam allowance on one side of the collar point, not both. The other side is simply folded fabric and elminating all that bulk makes a big difference. I did understitch the collar and it turned very easily right into the nice points you see above, no stress. Nancy, once again, has proven to be my patron saint of sewing, may she RIP. 


These are the collar pieces I cut and I have them pinned together now in the pattern envelope. Since this is a basic camp shirt style, no doubt I will make it again. Next time all will be ready to go. Don't you just love to make second and third versions of patterns that you enjoy?  Tomorrow it is off to see the Red Sox, work on a prom gown hem, than back to this shirt which I am making complicated in so many ways. Stay tuned...........my new sign off.............Sewing bOlder,,,,Bunny

6 comments:

  1. Threads #166 has an article by Louise Cutting - A Better Collar - that looks like it is the same, or very similar, technique. I have Nancy's book but it is downstairs so I can't compare the two techniques. Thought you might like to read another approach in case they aren't the same. Love your new sig file!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Mary. Great to hear from you. I have that Threads downstairs and will take a look as soon as I get a minute. My sister also told me that Linda Lee uses this method as well. Thanks for your input.

      Delete
  2. Your collar looks beautiful. And thanks for the link to Nancy's book. I've ordered it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I think you will be really glad you made the purchase. Happy reading!

      Delete
  3. Bunny, I have a book called Sewing Magic by Barbara Hellyer that shows the same technique. I seem to recall David Coffin wrote about her in his shirt book and I had read somewhere that she and Nancy Zieman corresponded. I have Nancy's book as well. Barbara's book is older so she may have originated the technique or at least been the first one to publish it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It is getting interesting chasing down the origin of this brilliant idea. I did find and read the Threads article by Louise Cutting and it is just like Zieman's. I will have to look for the Hellyer book at my library for starters. After this episode I don't think I can go back to the old way I've been doing collars and points. Thanks, everyone, for your opinion. I am anxious to see how the Montana collar comes out as one end of the collar is longer than the other and both are obtuse. I will defintely mock up that one.

      Delete

Engaging commentary:

So very much better!

  Collar is laid on a lumpy folded piece of ponte  so looks curvy on one side. It's not.  Well, this is a heck of a lot better. The secr...