A Little Linen Shirt!
This is Simplicity 8090. I like it. Last winter, in what I now call my creative drought, I bought fabrics for the future. One was a digitally printed viscose knit panel. I bought enough panels to make a simple skirt but since the colorway was out of my usual and because I wanted to wear this outfit in the summer I was on the search for fabric and pattern for simple sleeveless top. While reorganizing the past few days, I found this perfectly colored bit of linen. It was just enough to pull off this top. When the skirt is done I will model everything for you. In the meantime let's have a review!
Simplicity 8090 is six tops. Two are sleeveless longer hi-lo hem tunics with the classic tunic neckline. Two others have short sleeves, one sporting a front bottom ruffle. There are also two much shorter tops, one sleeveless and plain and one a short tunic effect with 3/4 sleeves. I landed on View C, the simple sleeveless button front with collar.
The pattern also has French darts which really take it away from the loving hands at home look. Even the short tops are a bit hi-lo on the hem, just enough to make me happy. I'm not a big hi-lo fan. It is an American Sewing Guild pattern. I am not quite sure what that indicates but it is on the front of the envelope.
I did a size 6 with no FBA. There is a lot of ease built into this garment at the bustline and hem which I found out from flat pattern measuring. I suggest you measure first before you decide on your usual FBA. This baby was right out of the envelope and fits quite well. I did notice on PR that others had the same thoughts regarding FBAs and ease.
I used a leftover piece of handkerchief linen in a bronzey green, perfect weight for a summer top. It's been well washed to bring down the wrinkle factor. Interfacing was the only black I had on hand, a fusible tricot and it worked fine. I did not have enough fabrics for facing but the pattern specified bias bindings anyway. I found the closest I could in Wright's tapes and called it a day.
This was pretty easy. Three things: I put the tab on the center back seam where it was indicated for the long tunic. I left it that way. I didn't pick up on that until too late in the process and wasn't going to start taking apart this lightweight linen. The other issue is the top stitching. You can see here I used the garment thread but with a triple stitch. When I do that I adjust the tension so the bobbin thread is tight and doesn't show on top. That looks great but as I had most of it top stitched around the collar and now going down the facing edges, I realized the turn of the lapel. Yikes. it looked nasty and I ripped most of that out and did the top stitching so that it was facing in the right direction once it hit the turn of the lapel. Does that make sense? Anyway. if you top stitch this, keep that in mind. Like I said, I was in a creative drought and these skills need to be brushed up a bit. I do like the look and heaviness of the triple stitch that you can see above.
The bias binding was sewn to the armscye and then graded, trimmed and turned to the inside completely. To secure it was top stitched with the triple stitch.
Now for the third faux pas: all my own fault. The only alteration I did here was what I do to everything right out of the envelope. I "petite" the bodice. I took out my usual half inch of length between the apex and the shoulder seam. OK, fits fine, works, what's the problem? The problem is this is a very short top to begin with. I just reduced the length by half an inch. On a five foot tall person a half inch can be critical and here it showed way too much waistline skin. Yikes! I think when I make the skirt it will have a waistband and hopefully that will take care of everything. Fingers crossed.
I did not follow the recommendation for spacing the buttons that the pattern gave. It just seemed that there were too many. I kept it simple with no collar button and the first of only three starting just above mid-bust.
All vertical seams were sewn, serged, pressed to the side and top stitched.
I would definitely make this pattern again. I hope the skirt comes out as I envision and that it makes a nice casual outfit. Since I have moved, I have found that this is not jeans and tee shirt territory and I need a bit better casual clothing, not necessarily work clothing. I am not saying people are dressed up, just that other options than leggings and jeans seem to be worn by many of all ages and that's great, IMO. Hey, any excuse to sew more works for me.
I would recommend this pattern but with a note to pay attention to the little details mentioned. It's a good basic and easy to fit as there is plenty of ease in the bust and waist areas. it's all about the shoulders and neck with this one and those French darts are awesome. I can see this made up in a Madras plaid, very preppy and beach worthy.
We have another wave of house guests this weekend but next in the queue will be the skirt. Wait till you see that fabric.....................Bunny