Is it just too Simple - icity?

I have two  evening weddings to attend this fall. I am considering something along these lines.

Here is another version I like:

What I really like about these two outfits are the tops. I cannot find anything in patterns with the extended scooped out neckline like the red one above. Simplicity has a wonderful possibility in  Simp 8380 which could easily be worked up into a top with the scarf effect. I love the forgiving value of that scarf on the shoulder!

There are lots of versions online of this look. I think it is so feminine and very "Amal" and of the moment. These skirts have been a favorite of mine for many years, featuring my waist and hiding those wide hipbones and booty. I think I can work this. Here's another:

What I really want to talk about here is Simplicity Patterns. Ah, the name, Simplicity, Simple, right? I really don't think so. In my very young sewing days, when I was far more observant than skilled, I decided I didn't like them. Just     too   simple.     I really think they were back then. I can remembert my mom saying "We'll start you off with Simplicity patterns" and it sort of stuck. By fifteen I was knocking out the Vogues and criticizing the Simps. My biggest complaint which some may remember and which I thought at the time was just horrible, is that every pattern had two darts at the back shoulder seam. I would see those darts on the backs of people I knew and tell myself, "that's a Simplicty. Look at those two darts." Rarely did the Vogues have them. What impresses us in our teens, who can explain and what little did I know about shaping?

Fast forward and today I feel totally differently. I know we all have our favorite pattern companies and I would probably still say Vogue for numerous reasons. But, time and time again when I am searching for a design still nascent in my head, I start my search with Vogue, then McC, then Butt, and lastly Simp. Every stinkin' time exactly what I am look for pops up quickly in Simplicity. And the really interesting thing is that it is almost always a Cynthia Rowley design, my favorite designer.

This will easily make my envisioned top with the scarf on the shoulder. I will lower the darts obviously, and probably build a bra into the lining. I hate strapless bras, but we will work it all out. Funny how I still can't get over my dart issues with this company but keep finding just the right styles for five foot tall me and in my favorite designer. I wonder if   Rowley is petite?...Bunny

A Little Linen Shirt!

This is Simplicity 8090. I like it. Last winter, in what I now call my creative drought, I bought fabrics for the future. One was a digitally printed viscose knit panel. I bought enough panels to make a simple skirt but since the colorway was out of my usual and because I wanted to wear this outfit in the summer I was on the search for fabric and pattern for simple sleeveless top. While reorganizing the past few days, I found this perfectly colored bit of linen. It was just enough to pull off this top. When the skirt is done I will model everything for you. In the meantime let's have a review!

Pattern:

Simplicity 8090 is six tops. Two are sleeveless longer hi-lo hem tunics with the classic tunic neckline. Two others have short sleeves, one sporting a front bottom ruffle. There are also two much shorter tops, one sleeveless  and plain and one a short tunic effect with 3/4 sleeves. I landed on View C, the simple sleeveless button front with collar. 

The pattern also has French darts which really take it away from the loving hands at home look. Even the short tops are a bit hi-lo on the hem, just enough to make me happy. I'm not a big hi-lo fan. It is an American Sewing Guild pattern. I am not quite sure what that indicates but it is on the front of the envelope.

I did a size 6 with no FBA. There is a lot of ease built into this garment at the bustline and hem which I found out from flat pattern measuring. I suggest you measure first before you decide on your usual FBA. This baby was right out of the envelope and fits quite well. I did notice on PR that others had the same thoughts regarding FBAs and ease. 

Fabric:

I used a leftover piece of handkerchief linen in a bronzey green, perfect weight for a summer top. It's been well washed to bring down the wrinkle factor. Interfacing was the only black I had on hand, a fusible tricot and it worked fine. I did not have enough fabrics for facing but the pattern specified bias bindings anyway. I found the closest I could in Wright's tapes and called it a day.

Construction:

This was pretty easy. Three things: I put the tab on the center back seam where it was indicated for the long tunic. I left it that way. I didn't pick up on that until too late in the process and wasn't going to start taking apart this lightweight linen. The other issue is the top stitching. You can see here I used the garment thread but with a triple stitch. When I do that I adjust the tension so the bobbin thread is tight and doesn't show on top. That looks great but as I had most of it top stitched around the collar and now going down the facing edges, I realized the turn of the lapel. Yikes. it looked nasty and I ripped most of that out and did the top stitching so that it was facing in the right direction once it hit the turn of the lapel. Does that make sense? Anyway. if you top stitch this, keep that in mind. Like I said, I was in a creative drought and these skills need to be brushed up a bit. I do like the look and heaviness of the triple stitch that you can see above. 

The bias binding was sewn to the armscye and then graded, trimmed and turned to the inside completely. To secure it was top stitched with the triple stitch. 

Now for the third faux pas: all my own fault. The only alteration I did here was what I do to everything right out of the envelope. I "petite" the bodice. I took out my usual half inch of length between the apex and the shoulder seam. OK, fits fine, works, what's the problem? The problem is this is a very short top to begin with. I just reduced the length by half an inch. On a five foot tall person a half inch can be critical and here it showed way too much waistline skin. Yikes! I think when I make the skirt it will have a waistband and hopefully that will take care of everything. Fingers crossed. 

I did not follow the recommendation for spacing the buttons that the pattern gave. It just seemed that there were too many. I kept it simple with no collar button and the first of only three starting just above mid-bust. 

All vertical seams were sewn, serged, pressed to the side and top stitched. 

In Conclusion:

I would definitely make this pattern again. I hope the skirt comes out as I envision and that it makes a nice casual outfit. Since I have moved, I have found that  this is not jeans and tee shirt territory and I need a bit better casual clothing, not necessarily work clothing. I am not saying people are dressed up, just that other options than leggings and jeans seem to be worn by many of all ages  and that's great, IMO. Hey, any excuse to sew more works for me. 

I would recommend this pattern but with a note to pay attention to the little details mentioned. It's a good basic and easy to fit as there is plenty of ease in the bust and waist areas. it's all about the shoulders and neck with this one and those French darts are awesome. I can see this made up in a Madras plaid, very preppy and beach worthy. 

We have another wave of house guests this weekend but next in the queue will be the skirt. Wait till you see that fabric.....................Bunny

The Wolves have howled! Simp 2771

 

Zackie's PJs got finished this morning. Took one hour to whip out the pants. Here's the lowdown:

Pattern:  Simplicity 2771 , "Unisex Pajama". There's a lot I love about this pattern and have used it many times. First it carries every size from little tyke to Big Daddy and is not gender specific. I would love a pair of these for myself. It is pretty easy and you can take it to the next level creatively by doing the piping but not necessary. The only caveat here is dealing with the neckline band. It is sort of counter intuitive. You put on the band AND THEN you face the band after. It looks like the band is the actual  facing but that is not the case and the first couple of times I made this it took me a bit to get my head wrapped around that.

Another thing I like about this pattern is the neck treatment. I've made classic notched collar pajamas. Forget that! With this neckline you don't have pjs coming out  of the washer/dryer with a skewed crumpled collar. I mean really, who is going to iron pjs? Not even moi, who irons everything. With this neckline it always looks neat, especially for those Christmas morning snapshots.

A bit of advice: if you would like to add this to your stash for sewing lots of different sized jammies, wait till a Joann sale and get all the sizes at 99 cents a pattern.All the sizes are in one envelope but by having several envelopes you can cut out each size needed. It will save all the tracing I have done.

Fabric: This is a 100% cotton flannel from EQuilter,com from the North Woods Collection. There are some exquisite flannels to be seen there. It is very heavy, washed and dried with nearly no shrinkage and came out holding its appearance. I've used this line of flannel before and it is a delight to sew with. Be aware that sewing pajamas takes a lot of fabric and this is not cheap. You have long sleeves, pants and bodice. I believe I used 4 yards at 11.95 so you can do the math. BUT, these are being passed through the family, wear like iron, wash beautifully and most of all, the kids love them and ask for them. I have bought cheapo flannel and you never know quite what you are going to get. I highly recommend if you can go the expense. When your grandchildren ask you to make these and it's unsolicited, you know it's worth every penny. 

The piping was also 100% cotton flannel. The bands are interfaced with Armo Weft. 

PIC

Construction: This is pretty straight forward and just take it slow figuring out how to put the band on. It is easy to attach the wrong side which I did the first time I made this. Other than that it is simple.  This would be a great pattern to learn/attempt piping as there are no sharp corners to turn. On my version the seams are all stitched then serged with some being topstitched. There is topstitching next to all the piping which brings out the 64,000.00 question. In my last post how did I get the moon on the pocket to not show the stitches? I did nothing. It is topstitched with the same navy thread but the flash bounced back off the moon and made it disappear. Pretty cool, huh? Now if time were nothing in my life I might have switched threads to a white for the moon but sorry, not this time!  Because of yardage limitations I also did not make an effort to match the band. That could be done but it would require additional yardage and I felt maxed out on the expense of this project already. But that pocket matches and I feel good knowing that.

In conclusion: This is a great pattern. The fabric was wonderful and it's going to a very appreciative young man. I will no doubt make this again and again. I am thinking a pair for me but a winter coat is coming first. Got my Kasha lining today!!!...Bunny