Claire Shaeffer, Chanel and Palm Springs, CA

Life has been a whirr since I returned from my utterly fabulous week of learning in Palm Springs  with Claire Shaeffer. It was followed just a few days later  with a planned vacation in the White Mountains of NH with family. Talk about contrast! Now life has settled a bit. I'm back to work and finally have a moment to share with you this incredible sewing experience.

First, start saving now and do yourself a favor and take this class! Claire's depth of  experience and skill and those breathtaking couture garments will make it all worth while. The hotel above is where all our classes were held and where us non commuters had wonderful accommodations for the length of the trip. The Palm Mountain Resort is right in the center of all the action in Palm Springs. Each day I was able to go for long walks before class and at night visit one of the many restaurants for dinner. Palm Springs is gorgeous, perfectly manicured and a great place to window shop as well. I took this pic of a store  window because I thought the ideas shown on the knit tops were really clever and useful for future efforts.Love those faux straps on top left.

And then there were our classes! Claire is a treasure, an elegant gamine of a woman whose knowledge of couture, couturiers and "mains" (the " hands ", sewists in the couture workrooms) is priceless. She shares generously of her time and knowledge and is a great teacher. Here she is instructing us on inserting wiggan into our hems, all the way it is done at Chanel.

We were able to purchase hard to get supplies to take back home for our own creations and you bet I brought home lots of various widths of wiggan. Wiggan is a bias strip of woven interfacing with a crisp hand. Yes, there IS interfacing in those jackets, in the hems and sleeve vents and edges!

Above is my attempt at starting a Channel mitered corner, done quite differently than other methods I've used. That is what we were there to learn - how things are actually done at Chanel and Claire delivered. When someone can tell you the difference between a Valentino miter and a Chanel miter, well, I'm impressed and listening! Claire's knowledge of couture is personally experienced and deep. She has taken apart numerous garments for study and had an amazing collection of garments for us to peruse. Every day she brought in another dozen or so of actual Chanel garments for us to "dissect" visually. What a learning opportunity that was! First, we were able to see first hand the incredible techniques as well as admire their beauty. And there was SO much beauty. If you have ever wanted to see or pet a real couture garment, this class far exceeded that expectation. It was inspiring to see how each garment interpreted the classic style. There were collars, lapped center fronts, belts and all sorts of variances from what we all perceive as the Chanel jacket. That taught me that I can make pretty much any jacket with these techniques and the results would be just as lush and lovely as the classic cardigan style. And I will!

The buttons on these garments were works of art in themselves, like fine jewelry. It was such a treat to see them. What appears to be a selvedge edge is machine topstitched for the above edge treatment.

This garment above has a facing at the hem and center front. Again, not exactly what we have been primed to expect and I love how this taught me that I can use these couture techniques and make the jacket I want. There could be a facing, a collar or one of the many unique edge treatments. Wow, those edge treatments! Another observation - those chains in the hems are much heavier than I expected. I have been using the wrong chain! 

And then there were the sewing friends I made at this retreat! Is that not always the best part? 

From left to right, Brenda, Lynne, myself, Claire, Kristie and Lori. Not in the photo were Linda, Janet and Louise. Linda was our savior, helping us with our struggles and encouraging us every step of the way. Janet supplied comic relief and really was a hoot. Louise was in the background perfecting the latest design for Vogue from Claire. I won't let out any secrets but will say it's a stunner and not a jacket. You will just have to wait. The design will look great on every woman and I predict it to be a big seller!

Kristie is an amazing newbie, relative to the rest of us. She has been sewing five years and man, she is self driven to become a master. Kristie was my table mate and I couldn't have been happier about it. I predict Kristie will be a great sewist as she mastered her lessons really well. Her skill level was awesome given her length of time sewing. Way to go, Kristie!

Brenda's smile is infectious and I always strained to hear the fun happening at her table. Let's just say she is "pithy and astute." Brenda is an instructor in garment construction at a college in Arizona, another delightful woman with whom  to share this passion  of  sewing

And here we have the amazing Lori, draper and patternmaker extraordinaire. She also teaches textiles at the same college as Brenda.  I loved hearing her views from the patternmaker standpoint, very informative!

And the lovely Lynne, shown here with Claire admiring this really interesting jacket. It has wool facings approximately 6 inches deep and they extend past the garment edge as trim. So interesting!
 Lynne and her hubby are artists, she with a needle and he as a sculptor. Lynne makes incredible cosplay garments and blogs as well. I have added her blog on the right to my blog roll. Lynne  asked great questions.

People, WE LEARNED SO MUCH! Claire had another class the following week continuing with more of the Chanel suit. Oh, to not have to have gone back to the reality of my job, albeit one I love... Future classes are planned for pant fitting as well as couture pants, a couture dress class and more. Claire has been in the workrooms of Paris and London and worked directly with couturiers. Her anecdotes are priceless.  She works with the Museum of the City of NY, Phoenix Art Museum, Los Angeles County Museum of arts and numerous other museums around the world. Her resume is very impressive and in case you have been visiting another planet, Claire designs great patterns for Vogue with more coming. She has held faculty positions at numerous colleges and has authored numerous books and DVDs. I think we could all say we got the most amazing education in our week with Claire in Palm Springs.

And then there was Palm Springs. Its beauty was in such contrast to the green Adirondacks and rolling fields  that surround me here at home. It is a small town, very modern, spotless, and lush in a desert sort of way. I had never seen the desert and was captivated. The endless cobalt skies that backed the stark grey mountains surrounding the town were the perfect backdrop for a real life oasis. Rosemary shrubs, lots of wafting scents, blooming trees and giant palms were everywhere. You could tell water was precious but in the evening tiny misters on edges of buildings provided a fine spray to fall on all passers by. It dropped the temp a good 20 degrees when you hit the misters. This was a new experience for this New Englander. Temps ran from 103 to 106 while we ate lunch on our patio. I never found it uncomfortable as the arid air magically made it bearable. I enjoyed my long walks no problem in the heat.

I had my breakfast under the red umbrellas every morning, just a short walk from the hotel.

My head is still spinning. We hope to do a sew along, or maybe we could call it a "sew together"  and make our jackets. I am on a quest for the right fabric and you know how it is when you have a specific vision in your mind. Hopefully my swatching from Banksville Fabrics will provide what I need. I didn't see the colorway I wanted at the Linton site but will keep looking. Claire had some marvelous fabrics I had never seen that we could purchase, including a luscious silk muslin. It was certainly a week of sensory delights.

In our class we built our half jackets with collars, linings, vents,  bound buttonholes in the lining, and all the other required details of a couture jacket. Claire instructed us patiently and clearly with each step. When it took us an entire week and then some to learn and do these techniques you can certainly see why the finished jackets take a hundred plus hours to complete.

This class is so worth it. Claire was a fabulous instructor, totally knowledgeable of her subject and very generous. The women I met were all so much fun and what a treat to be with those who share your passion equally. I can't put into words what a great experience it all was. I hope all of you get a chance to take a class from Claire. You will be so glad you did........Bunny

California, here I come!

Big Wave and Bye Bye as I head out for a wonderful week of couture education with the incredible Claire Shaeffer. Till my return....................Bunny

The Oopsie saved?

I just loved the way the bodice back was cut on the bias  on Vogue 8962, a recent knit make. The bias cut made it hang in such a pretty way in the back. You can see it here.  I also was getting this vague bridal vibe from my eyelet shirt, a TNT pattern. Throw in a tricky little way to maybe disguise my lack of matching the pattern and I was slashing up the back of the completed bodice of the the eyelet oopsie shirt.

I don't know what made me do this other than I thought it would look pretty and my planets were lining up this afternoon. I cut a triangular godet shape, slashed the back of the shirt from the "wing" area down, much like the knit top, and stitched the godet into the space. I love the effect. I rounded the bottom of the godet with a slight circular curve so it would all hang evenly. I really like the results.

It does somewhat  camouflage the  pattern matching issue, I think,  and that makes me a lot happier and more eager to wear this top. 

The sleeves are completed and ready for installation. The slit area at the bottom will be a turned up cuff. Tomorrow I hope to get the sleeves in and the buttonholes done. That will definitely be a job for old Ken, the buttonhole loving Kenmore that I would be lost without.  There is no way a computerized machine will handle the lumps and bumps of eyelet on the fabric so old Ken to the rescue!

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Piles of clothing sit on my dining room table. I am figuring out what exactly to bring for my week with Claire Shaeffer. The temps are currently running 102-103º daily with "brilliant sunshine." It's a hoot to look at the weather forecast in Palm Springs. Every day for days it is "brilliant sunshine". Works for me. We will be in air conditioned spaces most of the time so all this needs some planning out. I have a couple of holes to fill and then I will pick and choose my seven days of clothing destined for the desert. Sunscreen and sunglasses are packed and my mind is open, ready to absorb everything happening at the class. I am so looking forward to it as well as meeting other passionate sewists. I  will keep you posted.......Bunny

The Oopsie Shirt

I thought  McCalls 6076 would get the designation of "The Eyelet Shirt" but after today I will call it the "Oopsie Shirt. "

Halfway through my construction, after being basted for fit, undone and redone for actual construction, topstitching, grading, etc. I realized there is a pattern to the eyelet. Of course there is a pattern to the eyelet! Duh!!! Why did this never occur to me initially?  I just went full speed ahead into the project and never noticed anything as trivial (hah!) as a pattern repeat. Since you know I don't do wadders, I just kept on going and chalked it up to not enough caffeine.

Truthfully, I can wear this out to work and shopping and no one I know will ever know the difference. But will I wear it to my Claire Shaeffer couture sewing retreat? Probably not, that is unless I can bring an accessory. That would be my scarlet red face and the logo "Embarrassed". ;)  I just really wish I had picked up on the pattern repeat and can't stop swatting myself over it. Lesson learned!

One of the issues with this fabric was the obvious seam allowances as you can see above. There were so many options including lining, serging, and others. I decided not to line the blouse as it really is quite solid when on. but those big SAs had to go.

I ended up topstitching them an eighth of an inch from the well of the seam on both sides. Then I trimmed the SA as far back as possible. I think it looks quite good and is quite sturdy as well. 

At this point the collar and front facings are in and all that's left are sleeves and buttons. Buttonholes? Those are a guaranteed nightmare with the lumpy stitching on this fabric. I may do a faux buttonhole and button and a snap closure underneath. There are definitely some trial samples to be done!

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I learned the neatest trick. Thank you, Pinterest. Yesterday I did a huge purge of my closet and much is going to charity tomorrow. One of the issues I have/had is all my ITY tops. They were folded on the top of the closet shelf but are so slippery that it soon became a hot mess of knit disorder. I definitely didn't want to hang them and get bubbles in my shoulders from that. Then on Pinterest I saw this idea and it is working out really well. So simple! It is a great way to store knits. Here's the link. 

Happy Sewing!...Bunny

Another White Shirt, Simplicity 6076

A new project begins! I believe a girl can never have too many white shirts and I certainly know I can never have enough. Digging in the stash the other day for something totally unrelated led me to this eyelet. I can't remember where it came from, perhaps my former neighbor, Ima. I'm not sure. But, I think it will make a lovely addition to my white shirt collection.

I am going really simple with the pattern here, Simplicity 6076. This is a blouse I have made before and been happy with. I love the two piece 3/4 sleeves and the simple collar, no band! It is shoulder princess seam style.  I think this could even look great with the Donna Karan jumper. And I am up to a bit of natural fiber after all those knits. Speaking of, I did finish another knit top and will have pics of that soon. It was a whip out.

I have to think out this blouse a bit. It is cut out and I see no issues there but for the construction, well, it's eyelet. I don't think I want to line it but maybe just the bodice? That will help hide the seam allowances. It is too lumpy bumpy, IMO, to get a nice french seam and I am not sure how well even the serger would work. You see  I am talking myself into  lining this, don't you?

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Ever have one of those days wear the hurrier you go the behinder you get? It seems like the last couple of weeks have been that way with much taking my attention, one varied thing after another, just lots of unconnected dibs and dabs. I am looking forward to a whole day of sewing soon but that may be a while. A whole day of gardening would go over really well too. I am needing to finalize all I need to do, bring and deal with for my trip to Palm Springs. You've heard it before but I am SO looking forward to this class with Claire Shaeffer. From all I have read it looks to be a fabulous experience. I have one more thing on my notions list to get and that will be taken care of. I will have my tablet and camera with me so I can post, if time allows. I am so looking forward to meeting others who are as passionate about sewing as I am and as you are too, dear readers.  Will surely keep you posted. 

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Our children were away on vacations this Easter so hubby and I spent the weekend close to home but we had a wonderful time. On Easter Sunday, a glorious crystal blue day, we went for a hike at one of our favorite haunts, Meacham Lake. The lake is still frozen but the snow and frost have left enough to get a decent enough hike in. It was utterly quiet at the lake and no one was around except us and one large grunting animal. We never saw it so don't know what it was but it did put us on high alert. All in all in was a lovely glorious day shared with the man of my dreams. I hope your holiday has been wonderful and family have been close by and the spirit of renewal has blessed your day....Bunny

Vogue 1175, the Donna Karan dress/jumper

We may have hit 70 º today so I figured let's do some outside pics and my handsome photographer gladly accommodated. Of course he wanted pictures close to the river, which is way over its banks right now, but getting there required sinking in the mud a near foot with every step. So outside the kitchen door it was!

 I did have fun with the picture taking today and actually used Caroline's technique of dancing to my favorite music for the interior shots.

I love this jumper. It's a jumper for now and when all was said and done the back did not come below my bra band after all but the front still was pretty low. I can see wearing it with a tank underneath on a hot summer day. I think it is pretty versatile and hubby really liked it as well.

Pattern:

This is Vogue 1175, an out of print pattern but one that can be found on Etsy and Ebay with a bit of patience. All the patterns for sale that I found ran from 20 - 25 dollars but I managed to find this one, uncut, still in factory folds, in the right size, for 5.00! Woo hoo!

The pattern description says, "Close-fitting, above mid-knee length, pullover, lined dress has contrast bodice back, seam detail, pleated front and back, side front in-seam pockets and puffed hem." Whew... that exhausted me, but there is a lot going on with this dress. The good news is there is no zipper, no buttons, lots of angles and some very interesting seaming. It is unique. It really is not hard to put together as long as you follow the instructions closely and mark it well. You can make this dress with 2 1/2 yards of fabric. You have to be careful here. Karan has designed this with a back bodice in a contrasting fabric. If you are going to do it all in one fabric, no contrast, you will need   2  1/2 yards, not the 2 yards specified for dress.

This dress is not hard to make. It is just different. And that is what makes it special, IMO! I chose not to do the "puff hem" and liked it long as well so "above mid-knee" didn't happen either. I also did not do the in seam pockets. Why? Maybe someone needs pockets that badly but in this dress, it's not me so I left them out.

I stinkin' LOVE the back of this dress!

Fabric:

While this looks like denim, it is actually a cross dyed linen and I love it. This dress MUST be made in a lightweight fabric and this fabric is just a bit heavier than handkerchief linen, not quite a pantweight. There are seam angles where many layers meet, particularly at center front and back. I did some serious grading , not mentioned in the pattern, as well as understitching to get things to lie flat. This would be wonderful in a lawn or voile, so floaty and pretty. There is no interfacing but I may be tempted to interface the strap area on the lining if I make this one again.

That wrinkle isn't really there. I am just dancing! I think it works better for Caroline than me!

The lining is the anti-static poly from Joanns. I find it relatively breathable and very available to someone needing lining fast. This is lined very differently with the lining for the back skirt being hand stitched to the back bodice.

Construction:

This is definitely not a pattern you can make without reading. There is nothing really difficult about it but you do have to pay attention. Marking is extremely important and I have discussed that in a previous post here. Big squares, little squares, triangles, big and little circles, pleats, it's got them all so pay attention to the marking if you make this.

My first challenge with this pattern was finding out how it would fit. I ended up doing a pivot and slide to get some extra width for a C cup bust. I show that here. The muslin looked good after that. But every fabric is different and this linen really wanted to stretch a lot on all those bias edges. What was a good fitting bodice ended up gaping at the armhole edge once made in the linen and that was despite the edges being stayed with selvedge. The neckline was perfect. It was the armscye that had a tiny bit of a gape. So I added a small dart in the side seam which barely even shows when worn.

 I really think this is because the bodice is pretty flat with the only bust adjustment being the one pleat at center front.  I raised the height of the neckline about an inch and that allowed me to add a second pleat at center bust for  boob accommodation. From the waist down everything fit just fine so no alterations there. I like the length of this without the puff hem. But I am five feet tall so if you are taller  and want the long hem you will definitely have to add yardage.

The pattern does not mention grading or understitching. I recommend both. If I made this in a casual fabric again, I would also definitely topstitch. I think it would emphasise  the unique seaming as well as keep all those edges down. There is serious bulk at the angles and I did not use a mid weight fabric. I also recommend serging the seams as you go along if you are going to leave your lining hanging free at the hem like I did.

Conclusion:

I recommend this pattern to any novice sewist who is interested in a fun but doable challenge and a unique garment. It may not be the best choice for a beginner.  This dress can be very dressy or casual, like my version. It is cut very low in front so if you don't want unwanted admiration  of your mammaries, cut  it higher or wear a cami underneath. Remember to lengthen the center front piece if you do add height to the neckline.  I think the hourglass shape of this is very flattering. I have a narrow torso and didn't have to make any adjustments there but I can see where others might have to. That could be a bit of a challenge. I highly recommend muslin or two to get the fit down. I would definitely make this again and may but not real soon!

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I am making some design changes in the blog and will be adding some pages as well as I try to clean up the layout. My goal is to make things readable, easy to find, and kind to the eyes. It's also just time for a bit of spring cleaning! Hope you like it when it's all done. 

Our raging spring river today:

......Bunny

V1175, DK jumper #3

The shell is complete and all that is left is the lining which I hope to finish tomorrow. I will try to answer the issue of how I fit the bodice here. But first some things to be aware of. This pattern is amazing. Most bias edges meet straight grain edges. While that will keep the bias under control once it is sewn together, it doesn't help before that.

I have barely touched this pattern piece and look how this bias angle has grown. It's a good habit to place the pattern on your pieces before stitching them together but it is critical with this design. Another suggestion is to use a natural fiber to make this dress. I can't imagine dealing with all this bias and a synthetic fabric at the same time. This angle above is the hem edge so I just cut it to match the pattern, again! But other pieces I steamed back into the proper length after checking them and before stitching. That won't work well  with synthetics. The armscyes and neckline edges were stayed with thin selvedge from the lining. I didn't do that for the other pieces because they  met up against straight grain pieces which will hold them in shape once sewn.

All of those pleats in the front were marked by simply folding back the pattern and using the tailor's chalk that disappears with ironing. It worked great

I've have a request to show how I adjusted  the bodice. First, the front:

You can see how I pivoted out from the shoulder seam a half inch at the underarm. Then I pivoted back to nothing at the bottom. I also added height to the front neckline, starting with nothing at the shoulder seam and raising the center front a half inch. What this did was give me the ability to add another pleat with that extra half inch at CF, a way to add more shape for a C cup. Now for the back:

You can see once again how I pivoted out from the shoulder to the underarm and then back in at the bottom. Because of linen's ability to be steamed and stretched, as well as the bias, there was no problem fitting in the additional length on this seam. Every thing pressed out with the seams looking like they were the exact same size to begin with.

I got the shell finished tonight and have not tried it on yet. It's just too late. I have my fingers crossed  that it fits and we will find out in the morning when I do a try on.  In the meantime, I am hoping for a good night's sleep and a fresh start with the lining bright and early in the morning! More to come.......Bunny

ETA: I tried it on this  morning and it seems to fit much better and I am pleased. I want to add that the same adjustments need to happen to the lining. I did this by simply laying the adjusted bodice pieces on top and matching up the notches. For the center front this meant moving the fold placement over a bit to accommodate the additional width on the bodice front. The lining fits with very little extra ease in the skirt so I morphed that out from a 12 at the hem cutting back to the original cutting line at the underarm. This gave me the extra I needed in the hips for the lining. 

Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing

Another sewing book review! I had wanted to read "Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing"  by Gretchen Hirsch for quite some time and finally got it at the library.

The book is divided into two sections. Part One is on skill building and Part Two is on sewing the wardrobe. Gretchen Hirsch has a very popular blog with the emphasis on sewing vintage styled garments. This same vintage vibe is carried throughout this book. As I made my way through the first six chapters on skills I really liked what I read.  The artwork by Sun Young Park is fabulous and makes the reading experience quite enjoyable. I hope we see more of Park's work in sewing literature in the future.

The writing style here is definitely one of having chit chat with the girls but it still gets across the techniques really well. Gertie doesn't shy away from challenging her readers with hand picked zippers, bound buttonholes, circular hems and more. I love that. The look and writing style are there to appeal to the next generation of sewists. It is  filled with techniques that definitely aren't newbie but also good basic information is there. There are wonderful photos and directions for doing all the basic handstitches, something many patterns and books assume you know. Chapter Four is devoted to "Stabilizing and Tailoring"  with sections that vary from boning a bodice to pad-stitching a lapel. Chapter Six is all about Fitting. Here Hirsch describes her own fitting process. I like that people see that she, like almost all of us, has to make pattern adjustments. That fitting is a part of sewing is something that has to be established from the beginning in the learning curve of new sewists and I like how Gertie has written about that in Chapter Six. I really liked all that I saw in Part One of this book. It has much more than what little I have shared here and covers a very broad range of techniques and knowledge.

In Part Two, "Wardrobe",  we are introduced to the patterns that are included with the book. There is a Pencil Skirt, "Portrait Blouse", the "Sultry Sheath", the "Wiggle Dress" and more dresses, and additional skirts, blouses, a suit jacket and coat dress, PLENTY! One thing I found confusing here was the instructions were all numbered, much as you'd see in any pattern, but the illustrations were all lettered. For example, I am looking at Step 11. in the instructions for the pencil skirt and at the end of the sentence is the letter "J" in parenthesis. Why not just label the illustration 11. like the step that it is. The letters add a bit of confusion, IMO.. Some vintage techniques are used in the patterns, for example, boning a waist.

Hirsch lost me in this section, lost me as a fan who so enjoyed Part One of  the book. Why? Many of the garments have issues with fit and technique. I felt like I was given all this information in the beginning of the book but when I saw the efforts resulting from all that information in the second part of the book I was very very disappointed. I really expected better. Many of these issues are the same ones visible in garments made and modeled on Hirsch's blog, bodices too long, armholes too high, darts past the apex or spot on, pointy horsehair hems, etc. It always bothers me, no matter who is doing it, when someone is teaching something and can't pull off what they are trying to teach others.

In conclusion, I wouldn't recommend this book. I know  many like it and Hirsch has scores of devout followers, many who look up to her for the right way of sewing. She is in a position to set a standard for new sewists but for some reason was not able to pull it off with her own garments and patterns that came with the book. I have to say that in my  research I have seen many make her patterns and fit them properly with excellent skills and they look really great. She just didn't do a very good job. This book would have been much better once Gertie's skills matured to a higher skill level. That comes with time and experience and this book was before it's time.....Bunny

The DK jumper, #2, V 1175

Isn't this a fun shape? I really like the hem at this length without the balloon effect., at least for now. If that continues I will just hem the dress and lining separately and leave it long. 

I decided on the pivot and slide which I think will work out the best for my shape. I added to the underarm and center seams this way for an additional 1 1/4 inch of width to the bust. I tried the slash and spread method, the remnants of which you can see on the muslin. It pulled things all awry and made big gapes as well. I think it just didn't work for my particular shape but I thought it would as it did for others. Pivot and slide it was! 

At this point I have the bodice pieces all on. Let me tell you, this pattern IS ALL about the marking! I used a legend and colored threads to mark things properly. 

It is really necessary. For the pleats I used a wax marker, the kind that disappears nicely when you iron. I drew in the direction of the pleats as well. That was VERY handy. I also made sure I laid the pattern out  for cutting exactly as shown in the directions. On my recent draped back tee, I ended up with a fine top but it was "backwards" from the directions in the pattern. With such odd looking pieces and such critical marking I just didn't want anything to vary from the pattern. So far it has all gone together really well.

I will say it has been bulky. I am using a light to midweight linen. And yes, it does look like denim. But it has that bit of linen glow which I love, and of course the wrinkles. This pattern has way too  many layers of fabric in places to make out of a denim and really needs a lightweight fabric.

At this point the fit looks pretty good and as I see this design unfold I think it will be flattering. The back hugs my narrowest part and that's always a good thing. 

Let's see if I can make it through the next steps, Wowsa!...Bunny

"The Colette Sewing Handbook"

Some of you may know I work in a library. It's a wonderful job and one of the perks is ordering for our library pretty much anything I would want. I recently requested some sewing books and will be reviewing them as I go through and read them. "The Colette Sewing Handbook" by Sarai Mitnick is one I have wanted to have in my hands for a long time. I was not disappointed. I am sure many of you have this book and certainly have heard of it but I am late to the game. I am in a situation in my studio where I have so many sewing books that it is rare I buy one any more. That's where the great library position comes in. We can just order them for the library and I have them at my disposal pretty much whenever.

The author of this book also is the founder and designer of the wonderful "Colletterie" sewing blog and "Collette" patterns. Her prior life in the tech world and as a specialist in User Experience makes a wonderful foundation for the her more recent years as a pattern designer and author. I found the "user experience" of reading this book very positive and enjoyable.

Mitnicks style is methodical and thoughtful as she carefully unfolds the knowledge needed by a beginner sewist to have a great wardrobe and a positive sewing experience.  She tackles the fundamentals with the goal of your sewing project being successful AND satisfying. Can we have more nobility like this , please?  This  book , with its signature soft colors and clear photos has a calming effect and you definitely want to sit with a cup of tea or wine to really savor the contents. I did!

photo courtesy of  www.threadandneedles.fr

The book is organized around five concepts,

• a Thoughtful Plan
• a Precise Pattern
• a Fantastic Fit
• a Beautiful Fabric
• a Fine Finish
• Bringing it all together

I personally gained much from reading through Chapter Two, a Thoughtful Plan. To quote Mitnick in the start of that chapter, "My approach is to focus on quality over quantity." She advises how to find inspiration, edit for your own style and dressing for yourself, your lifestyle  and your shape. She helps you develop a plan and make a croquis, all in that one chapter and there are seven chapters in all. At the end of the book you will find a glossary, index and a size chart.

 There are projects and patterns supplied with the book and with each project skills build freshly as well as upon previous skills learned. Each sewing project has a "skills checklist" with page numbers you can quickly refer to. Tools and supplies needed are very clear. I like Sarai's fit explanations and the proof is always in the garments. They look fabulous on the models. Unrelated to sewing but important to me, I really like the diversity of the models used in the book. It is refreshing and emphasizes how an updated classic can look wonderful on everyone if fit and skill are practiced with care. Thank you, Sarai, for that. 

If you are a new or more novice sewist, you will really enjoy the projects and patterns in the book. The inclusion of the five patterns makes this a true bargain for just the price of a great book. If there is a young budding sewist in your family this book would make a fine gift and set the person on the path to quality sewing. You all know how I feel about the garbage out on the internet that our next generation of sewists is being seduced with.   This is the information we want our new sewists to get. Sarai Mitnick presents it in a youthful, non threatening, methodical manner. As for more experienced sewists, buy this book for the patterns and savor every moment of your reading. It's really that lovely as well as informative and encouraging.....Bunny

 

Vogue 1175, the Donna Karan Dress

This project has begun and I am having a quandary over fitting the bust. But first, Let's take a close look at this pattern. 

The upper bodice is basically shapes meeting in a point in the back and in the front being separated by a center panel of fabric. There are two "cleavage" pleats at center front between the left and right bodices. That is  it for fitting the bust. If you look at the model on the right, there is gaping in her armpit. I am thinking that is because she even needs an FBA.  So I made a muslin. The muslin does not have that large pleated area of fabric between the two back bodice pieces. I was pinned that together so I could get it off and on. The rest of the muslin, other than the bodice pieces, are short versions because I knew the bottom skirt would fit. It is the bust I am worried about.

You can see this is very low cut, enough to show a bra band. Every version I saw on the web was worn with a cami or tee underneath and that is my plan as well. It really should be called the Donna Karan jumper. The armscye is cut VERY low as well. So a jumper it is.

This is pinned shut in the back. The neckline and armhole seam allowances are cut off. I am debating adding more height to the neckline but as I think it will always be a jumper I may just keep it the way it is. So far so good, right?

Here's the problem: I need more room in the bust. It looks fine in the front but that is because it won't pin shut in the back. I need additional fabric width directly across the fullest part of the bust, which lines up with those sharp corners.

But I need that extra in the front for my boobs. On me, with the bodice pinned shut, I have pulling where you see the red lines in the side view. 

So what I have done so far is pivot and slide out the front and back bodices to provide me with another inch all around. That should be enough to relieve the pulls as it has on Ms. Dumdum. BUT, there is another option, that seams foolproof and easier. I could simply widen the triangular piece of fabric connecting the two bodice fronts at the cleavage. Here's where you come in dear readers. Do you think if I simply add to the center front panel it will disturb the design too much and have an odd "widening" effect on my bust? Or do you think I should go with my Pivot and slide FBA which will add the needed  width at the underarm without affecting the design? What would you do or suggest? 

I hope to make some major headway on this on the weekend and look forward to your responses before I cut. From what I have read it goes together pretty quickly. The fabric is a cross dyed linen that looks like a denim color, really nice....Thanks in advance for any opinions.....Bunny