Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Wednesday Words

"I HATE pre-washing with a fiery passion! How cruel to be excited to make something just to stare at the washing machine and dryer beforehand ugh!!!!! ".............from Tara A. on Facebook

Friday, September 25, 2015

The dropped shoulder

photo courtesy of the Cutting class, great site!

My latest project has a "dropped shoulder" albeit not too much. Given that I have very narrow shoulders and have also often seen these be very ill fitting, I felt I needed to to step up my knowledge  base and did much googling and reading.

I think most experienced sewists know that a kimono, dolman,  raglan or cut on type sleeve will never hang the same way a "set in" sleeve does. Neither does a dropped shoulder. Here you can see what I mean.

Set in sleeve, smoothly going over the edge of the shoulder. The grey shoulder is a a traditional set in sleeve with a sleeve head and shoulder pads. The boucle shoulder has a "seam roll" installed to make that rounded curve. These are my own efforts

Raglan sleeves:  See those vertical wrinkles,pretty much unavoidable in this type of sleeve? Dropped shoulders can do the same as you see in the blue and white tee above. 


Dropped shoulders:
Notice anything? As the shoulder seam drops, even to the point of disappearing on some garments, the armscye gets lower and THE BODICE GETS WIDER.  It gets lower and wider as the shoulder gets lower, I never knew that! But it explains why the MT  jacket fits my narrow shoulders and why the above jacket has no drag lines. That additional width prevents the wrinkling in the armscye. 
The lower the shoulder seam, the wider the bodice! The armhole needs to drop as well as be enlarged. It's a whole different animal. You can see a great article and more pictures at the Cutting Class hereThere are some excellent examples of what happens as the shoulder drops lower and lower and I would like to thank and give props to the Cutting Class. If you are not following this site, you are missing out on some great sewing info. They use designer examples and explain how the looks were achieved, very enlightening and the information is provided by experts. I love the blue lace on the above jacket, don't you? 

Bottom line, the Tilton foiled jacket is well drafted to get the look she is after. I will show you soon. Just have to get those big black buttons on!...........Bunny

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Wednesday's Quote

Quote of the week:

"When the grain of one seam is being attached to another seam of a different grain, the couture rule is to stitch with the weakest grain on top. The weakest grain is bias, then crossgrain; lengthwise grain is strongest. .....On the princess seam, therefore, you'll sew from the waist to the shoulder on one side and from shoulder to waist on the other side."......Roberta Carr from her book, "Couture, the art of fine sewing".