Overdressed?

Well not in that I wore pearls and heels to weed the garden type of overdressed. No. But these pants are straight out of the book "Overdressed" by Elizabeth Cline.

For those of you who may be curvey, hour-glassey petites, Gloria Vanderbuilt makes the "Amanda" jean. It actually clings to the lower back and gives you a brief moment where you say, "am I just imagining that swayback issue I have?" They also have this actually yummy elastic used in the waist construction that would suck any smallish sewist right up to the cash register. It appears to be a design that started out as a great idea but now look what has happened.

 

View of the side seam as it lovingly caresses my ankle. Now that hangs straight down form my side waist doesn't it?

Here's the other leg. It wants to kiss my toes with it's side seam.

Then there is  trying to iron the dang things. Yes, I iron my jeans. We are allowed to wear them to work as long as we look put together, no sloppy jean look, so I iron them. Well, leaving them laying in the dryer for a couple days on end also inspires my ironing. Ironing these pants is a twist and shout dance routine. 

OK, Gloria V., we know you are extremely proud of your boy Anderson, but can we show a little pride in the cutting of your jeans? please? You've got the fit Ok. Don't spoil it with trash cutting. I really want to buy more. And that trick you do that shows a perfectly straight on grain pair of jeans when I try them on in the dressing room? I'm on to you. With each wash they twist more and more. I think they are trying to twist their way back to China. Should I write A.C. about this issue? He's always "just keeping them honest." Maybe he'll make an honest woman out of you?...............

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My next project is in the hopper. The seersucker shirt is spinning in the dryer hopefully regaining is blistery little seersuckers after having the bejeepers ironed out of them. Crossing my fingers for the moment I open the dryer looking for those tiny bubbles.  A good thing:

The buttonholes were perfection. Do you think I need a new BH attachment?  You can see where I have literally worn down the template. Duct tape holds it together as it has a crack across. There must be a place I can find after a night of googling that will mail me a new one. Got to check that out. Love this machine even if it weighs two tons and is half as old as I am. It makes the best BHs I have ever seen.

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Here is the next project. the fabric is a "quilting cotton". Ackkkk, I hear you gasp.I am still doing a bit of gasping myself but I wanted to sew a batik something for the summer and this one appealed to me. It has a nice soft hand, even after washing and drying so I think it will be fine. It will also be lined with a cotton batiste. I couldn't face a poly lining for anything outside of February, just too hot and sweaty. I think the batiste will be just right. The dress will be ANOTHER Marcy Tilton. Hey, stop throwing those tomatoes at me. I know I am a glutton for punishment but don't add to it, please. I just really love her designs. Since the big issue seems to always be the neckline upper chest area I think this one will be alright with it's mucho seams and draw string collar. I am still in the air over whether it will be sleeveless or cap sleeves. Maybe we'll mock up both ways and see what looks best. The pattern is Vogue, Marcy's home base, and number

8876. 

This just looks like a really comfy summer dress that will be great for work. Can't wait to get started...

Thanks, everyone, for all the kind wishes and congratulations about our anniversary. It was spent quietly and lovingly and your warm thoughts were taken to heart......Bunny

The Planet Earth Bag

I've started another Koos Bag, Vogue 1311     . This one is for moi. As I started putting together my fabrics and shapes I realized my colors looked like earth from space. That required I put a circle of hand dyed wool on the bag. Now it really looked like Planet Earth. I started to get more excited about the project.

 This bag, like the other, has lots of textures going on. The bias strips are hand dyed rayons and the other hand dyeds are wool. You also see here a home dec brocade and a heavy corduroy. The brown is a poly suiting. All has been interfaced with fusible fleece. You can't see it but there is also some machine quilting happening here as well. Since I did a tutorial on the unique Koos Zipper already I thought this time I would focus on the Koos Buttonholes.

Koos Buttonholes

I followed the directions exactly on these, up to a certain minor point in the construction. My choice of fabric made a nice bias shape so I stayed with the three dimensionality of it all as you will soon see. 

The first requirement of the button instructions is to sew a 3/4 inch hem folded underneath. This did not fit on the bag and still leave room for the zipper. I decided to use a one inch hem and mitered the hem on the BH appliques.

You can see the pressed folds from the first attempt here.  The BH  appliques are placed RS of app to wrong side of the bag after marking. Here is how I marked the holes. The bag straps will eventually come through the BH when done.

 I marked the actual BHs with waxed paper and a serrated wheel. Then I realized it was exactly a quarter inch wide so outcame the 1/4 inch masking tape.

I stitched around the tape. The important thing to remember here is to not start in a corner. Start and end stitching on one of the long lines of stitching instead.

The buttonhole is now cut with a BH chisel and into the corners with the applique scissors. You will have to really push down on the chisel as there are lots of layers here. This is just like a bound BH. I guess we will call it a "faced" BH.

Now the fun part! Turn and press your applique. Pin down the folds as shown on the pattern instruction sheet. Rayon on the bias has a mind of it's own so I went for curved outer edges on one side here. As long as what you do is consistent from BH to BH it will look fine. I discovered I really liked the three dimensionality of this so made a decision to not press it down. Just my personal choice. Once pinned you are ready for topstiching.

The instructions have you not stitch the pleat. I disregarded that and stitched it all down all the way around the applique. It gave a nice tight finish.Here is my version, a totally topstitched, puffy BH:

 

I have a couple more to stitch down and then it will be on to appliqueing the sides of the bag. I need to get a silver paint pen today so I can swish my initials and date somewhere on this. Have you tried Sharpie's metallic paint pens? They are fabulous!

Thank you to everyone for all your kind comments and encouragement while putting together the new dress form who will now be called Tilly from this day forward. You really inspire me to new sewing levels all the time. Thanks so much for that and I treasure all of you......Bunny